You can dismount the left tire and put it on the right wheel and vice versa if you want to extend the life of the tires. Merely swapping the left and right wheels might help some but it doesn't help the most significant problem of the negative camber wearing out the inside of the tire faster than the outside.

 

This is a sample of uneven tire wear and why the method Gilley points out is likely what you'll need to do if your tires start to look uneven.

Depending on your priorities, you can also go to the square setup next time around for tires. Some run square due to better winter handling and some do it for the rotation option and getting more tire life. Even though it won't resolve the rear camber pattern if you have that, the front 2 tires do not have that same caber issue normally.

OEM set-up is Staggered (dif sized front/rear)

Square = same size all around

 

And don't forget, some tires have one directional tread patterns. Factor the tread pattern into if or how you rotate the tires.

 

Thanks to all of you for your excellent replies. Glad that I asked.

If I were to square up on the tires, I want to do it right. To me, this means not compromising safety and avoiding adverse impacts to steering or suspension. Looks are not critical, and I can accept some diminished performance.
I do not come close to racing. I simply enjoy driving this car sometimes hitting it preferably on open or winding roads.

My fronts are 225/45R19 and my tears are 245/40R19. They do not indicate that they are directional.

Should I use the front or rear as basis? Any other suggestions?

Thanking you in advanced.

 

Not sure of what is most common but I think the 45 series is plenty wide enough for stability, traction and not really prone to hydroplane or too fat for snow/ice footprint if that's a consideration. I suspect most have run the front size or very close.

All those points you mention up front are ideal considerations for thinking square set up. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

 

You can get front and rear camber arms for less than the cost of a set of new tires. That was my justification of a camber kit.c then I lowered the car while I was at it.

 

It depends on what tires you currently have. I don't know what the factory tires are, but if they're asymmetrical, they need to stay put (no rotating or swapping).

If they're symmetrical, you can have them rotated laterally by dismounting and mounting (but it'll probably cost you a hundred bucks... so your savings may be moot).

I've been running a square 235/45r18 setup for winter, it's been great. As soon as my summers need replacing, I'll be replacing them with a square setup as well.

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Both great points....

Look at the tire wear from camber perspective and miles on the tire to see if it's enough of the main issue to consider camber arms as Gilley mentions. Tires only last so long anyways but if you can benefit enough, it may be worth it.

Per asymmetrical tread patterns, they are typically on the performance side of tire models/features so in your case of not really demanding the ultimate performance aspects and still getting a good tire to run square, it is a good point to know. This way you can factor that into your shopping.

As per tires you already have, it may not that critical at this point if you can rotate to buy some time and tire life in the meantime.

 

Very interesting and informative conversation, a couple friends (Corvette owners) comments were like, I like the g35's but their (tire eaters!) I suggested vett's are no better.

 

As far as I know and in the 20 k miles I've known my car, I'm considering myself fortunate that I have not seen a dramatic tendency for camber-induced wear. I more than let the GY GT's run their life that came on the car. I figured if you let the tire run it's reasonable life, you'll see that lopsided wearing very easily. No such case. They looked impressively even, all 4.

They were the OEM spec tire brand and size at 97,000 when I got it.
I'm with 245-45 and 255-45 Conti's now. I wanted the bigger tires for the way it looks proportional to the size of the wheel well. I thought the gap at top would get tighter and make the car appear lowered. I'm happy now. It looks to me a lot like the modded suspension versions but rides stock and not much approach angle concerns. For whatever reason, I've measured it and it does seem to sit lower than stock specs.

I've done it before but if anyone cares to measure the top lip at the fender-wheel well sitting level for all 4 points and post it, I'll re-do mine again to see what we come up with. :smile2: Sometimes those numbers are off a slight amount-- ie; the car sits lower on one side a teeny bit.

 

A dealership actually rotated the tires on my G without asking when I was in for an oil change. Got home and just happened to look at the rear tire before going inside and the direction arrow was backward. I was pissed. I spent an hour with jack stands fixing their screw up. I don't have the patience to drive back and wait for them to do it, especially not trusting them to do it right

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Geez. Seems the dealership would know better with unidirectional tires.

 

Strange they do that w/o asking but maybe their fine print says they do free rotations. Too bad they don't know about tire tread variations though.... even if they were well-meaning.

I'm pretty sure my Pirelli Scorpion Verde tire on the AWD Mazda have not been rotated at all. They wear pretty even and the fronts have just a tad more sipping still visible. I'm leaving them as is still but might not go all winter on them.

Yesterday, I got my first taste of winter roads and some uphill navigation on tires that are no longer winter worthy. In rwd form, it's a blend of skill, patience, experience and sheer luck !! lol

 

Here is an update on my situation.

Confirmed that my stock tires are not unidirectional and began rotating them side to side every 5,000 miles. Got 22,000 miles on them now and estimate I can get another 10,000 miles or more.

When I replace them, I would like to square them as you guys recommended with bigger tires all around.

My main question is whether I can reuse the stock wheels on front or have to replace the to accommodate bigger tires

Thank you in advanced.

 

Are the front and rear rims the same width?

 

I still have my forged stock rays and I run a square set-up year round of 245/40-19 and it works great.

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