OK. Using my DMM, I tested black (ground) and blue w/red stripe. It read about 10-11 volts. It also triggered the sun roof motor for some reason. Anyone know why? I suck with electrical stuff.

 

Tg is good with electrical stuff

 

For instance, the electric slide.


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That's not true. I tried it with him and he was terrible.

 

What type of DMM do you have?

A decent digital volt meter should have enough internal impedance to not alter a circuit's performance.

 

YES. I'm really lost with these things. This is what I have:

 

Best bet is to tap off at the fuse block. They sell an add-a-fuse contraption that plugs into an existing fuse slot. The fuse it replaced plugs into a slot on the thingy. That restores the original circuit. There is another slot and a pigtail for the new circuit.

 

I was hoping not to have to do this because:

1). I already have the dome light sunroof switch out and have access to the wires

2) given the Install location (headliner right where the mirror wire comes down) it will be a PITA to route the wires to the top of the roof from the fuse block.

I posted the pic of the DMM above on the setting I had it on. Not even sure it's on the right setting. Or maybe there is another setting so the circuit doesn't get triggered.

 

That's the current setting. On that setting the meter has very LOW impedance since it is supposed to be installed in SERIES in the circuit. Basically you connected a jumper wire across whatever you probed.

 

Use the V~Hz% setting to measure voltage.

 

Thanks TK. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

 

Careful with those meters. Everytime I see them on a movie, they are counting down to zero.

Then something BIG happens.

 

Wish I had an autoranging DMM.

 

I have 2, both are Fluke. A regular DMM and a clamp meter.

 

Don't connect to the dome light circuit. Connect to the sun roof because it is switched. If you have the home link mirror, there are other connections available.

 

Thanks TK for the proper settings on the DMM. Thanks for idea Gilley. I plan to tap in there instead. Part of why this wasn't working was because I was taping in after the switch. Arghhhh! I hate when I don't think things through before proceeding.

 

I've bought several for the shop at work. There is one model I've bought (2 of), a bench top DMM that I would really like to have but it's $1500.

 

Yawn


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I've went out drinking on a fluke
but it didn't cost me $1500.

Probably less than $125

 

Honestly, I did the fuse tap to the auto-dimming mirror circuit, and ran the wire up the side up the A-pillar and across the headliner (just tucked it in using a soft piece of plastic to push it in a bit. I then ran the tire down the little "tunnel" that goes from the headliner to the rear view mirror and I have a blendmount that holds my radar detector just below my rear view mirror. I absolutely LOVE the setup. With my tint you can't see the radar detector from outside of the car and the radar detector is in a very visible spot for me and gets great reception since it's high up and on the center line of the car.

And the best thing is that it's 100% reversible. I didn't do any wire cutting or tapping or anything. Just plugged in the tape fuse, crimped the proper plug on the tap fuse, plugged in the hardwire kit for my radar detector into that plug I just crimped on, and ran the wiring and plugged it all in. Took me about an hour and I did it at night all by myself.

 

Thanks Revo. I think I'm going to get a BlendMount. That looks clean! For anyone who wants to direct hardwire their radar detector using the autodim mirror here is the wiring diagram. Black is GROUND and BLACK/PURPLE is switched power. Hope this saves someone some hassle. I wasted a lot of time on this, so please make it not so much of a waste by doing your DIY in 30 minutes.

FYI: Mine is a 2003 Coupe. Check Section GW (Glasses, Window System & Mirrors) for your model year.

 

Direction matters because you have to tap into the hot side. The tap was first connected to the cold side after where the fuse would go to bridge the gap.

 

^^^ + 1

 

Thanks for the input guys!

 

Glad you got her wired up before the cash cow stretch of 15. Let me know how it works- and watch out for Lidar!

 

I have seen that there is a crackdown in speeding in I-15 between la and vegas

 

Theres one going up North on the 101 by king city. I literally saw chp like every mile just hidden. And they use laser radars!

 

Time to get a jammer!

 

I use some NASA engineered teflon wax that makes my car invisible to radar. It's expensive and you can get it through CAR & DRIVER (old issues had the ad because laws changed).

 

I just installed a governor on mine. Fuel cuts out at 55. No need to worry about tickets.


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55 is still speeding in a school zone.