If there's no leaks, then it has to be getting burned.

IMHO synthetic is overkill and you should use regular dino oil. Try using a standard dino oil, maybe something like 10w-40 and see if the oil problem doesn't start to reduce itself. Also any reason why you're running 5 weight oil?

 

I agree with the oil type in this instance. That is really wierd that you are not noticing any dripping oil? That rate of consumption is pretty high. My guess is that you are in fact burning oil. When a car burns oil it is not always apparent. You may not always see the tell tail smoke shooting out the pipes. Your best bet is to consult with an Infiniti dealership mechanic.

 

Welcome back RJ. I've missed reading your books, ummmmm I mean posts . I agree with GZ. You might wand to refer to this post where we all had this oil debate:

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-coupe/34805-im-new-here-hi-everyone-2.html

I had the same problem as you with OC. I went one step further than GZ recommended and went with Cheveron Delo 15w 40 (not for every climate but ok for SoCal. I think the dealer will tell you to go with what's recommended. I'm not convinced that Nissan even knows where that much oil is going but my oil guy said it's likely blowing past the rings in a fine vapor/mist and thats why you don't see any smoke. With the new oil, I went from 1 quart every 1,500 miles to about 1/4 quart every 1,500 miles. The dealer could help if you are still under the powertrain warranty by requesting an OC Test.

 

Welcome back RJ. I've missed reading your books, ummmmm I mean posts . I agree with GZ. You might wand to refer to this post where we all had this oil debate:

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-coupe/34805-im-new-here-hi-everyone-2.html

I had the same problem as you with OC. I went one step further than GZ recommended and went with Cheveron Delo 15w 40 (not for every climate but ok for SoCal. I think the dealer will tell you to go with what's recommended. I'm not convinced that Nissan even knows where that much oil is going but my oil guy said it's likely blowing past the rings in a fine vapor/mist and thats why you don't see any smoke. With the new oil, I went from 1 quart every 1,500 miles to about 1/4 quart every 1,500 miles. The dealer could help if you are still under the powertrain warranty by requesting an OC Test.

I was thinking that might be the case, especially with a 5w oil.

 

Thanks Redhot. I'm actually working on publishing my first book, I'll make sure you get a copy free of charge of course....

Only reason I'm using 5w-30 is I believe that is manufacturer recommended isnt it? Also I live in a colder climate unlike you socal/hawaii guys.... Right now it's about 19 degrees out! I might be able to do a 10w-40 but a 15w just seems overkill.

I've read tons about the oil debate.... I mainly just do it so I can keep the oil in my car longer rather than doing oil changes all the time. I replace every 10k miles with synthetic on the G and on my other cars and it works out fine on the others. The G has always been a pain so I guess I may have to switch up the strategy....

Definitely not under warranty anymore and I really don't trust dealers, especially the ones in my area. My friend use to be one of the mechanics at the Nissan Dealership and although he is a close friend of mine... I'd have to say he's not the brightest guy...


I have no problem changing the oil but why the increased oil consumption occurred after all my other problems worries me. I'm worried something may have been damaged that I don't know about and it's just a bigger problem waiting to happen. Anything related to the camshaft sensor or other parts? What are some common areas that could use inspecting with respect to oil burning?

Btw Redhot - this is page 2.

 

.............What are some common areas that could use inspecting with respect to oil burning?...........

Leaks on your underbody tray would be the first place to look, loose connections, toasted rings, etc.

 

LOL! What's you book going to be about? Yeah, with that temp you couldn't do the 15 weight. As far as places to check, I'll let some others guys comment. I have heard of a few places the oil may collect, but not to the extent of what you are losing. I imagine most is going out the exhaust. Good luck with the troubleshooting. I have a few frustrating problems with mine also. The G can be a pain but I still love it.

 

Lol in reality... I'm an economist by profession so an Economic text but more real world situations rather than theory....

Anywho - I forgot one key detail which I mentioned before on a previous thread. When the oil level is lower, my RPMS drop further, and when the engine is cold, the rpms don't drop below 1200 or so.... so for example.... i just went for a 10 minute drive and heres what the rpms looked like:

startup: about 1200 rpm
drove up to a traffic light about a 100 yards away.... stayed at 1200
stop and go traffic around 1000
as the car warmed rpms dropped to 700 whenever in neutral
car warms further... rpms drop to about 300-400 whenever coming out of gear and into neutral then bounces back up to 500-600

whenever the oil is low the rpms will drop to a point where the oil pressure light comes on. thats when i know i really need to add oil.

could this be describe an oil pump problem?

 

startup: about 1200 rpm
drove up to a traffic light about a 100 yards away.... stayed at 1200
stop and go traffic around 1000
as the car warmed rpms dropped to 700 whenever in neutral
car warms further... rpms drop to about 300-400 whenever coming out of gear and into neutral then bounces back up to 500-600

Your book sounds like a page turner.

Just so we're clear, the first long line on the tach is 500 rpms. Many people think it's zero. are you using it as 500 rpms? It doesn't seem like the motor would run at 300 - 400 rpms.

You might want to try dino oil because synthetic oil's uniform molecules seems to run easier and get by seals that dino oil doesn't.

but it is only 5 weight when it is cold, normal operating temps it will be 30 weight.

exactly.

 

Valve covers

CHECK THE SPARK PLUG TUBES, you may have a leak in the valve cover gasket

 

oil in the spark plug tube won't affect performance unless it's leaking into the cylinder or shorting the plug.

 

Mine idles between 600 and 700 RPMs. Only time it dips under that is a warm start up, 300 to 400 RPMs and sometimes stalls but I have an erratic vehicle voltage code. I agree with GZ, yours sounds pretty normal other than the OC issue. BTW, the low oil pressure does not necessarily indicate low oil level.

 

So did some work on the car over the weekend inspecting and such.... the only thing I found which was a major error on my mechanics part is that it looks when he replaced the upper plenum he caught the rubber "cup" that surrounds the oil filler inbetween the upper and lower plenum causing a small gap in my plenum.

I'm not sure if this would cause any oil burning but I'm sure it caused some performance drop.

 

I'm surprised the car was running normally. You have to be careful with that rubber piece.

 

I would say about a 1/4" deep by about 1" wide was stuck under the plenum. I'm not sure what the proper name is for this piece but it's literally the "cup" that surround the filler. I'm assuming the purpose of it is just to keep oil from spilling whenever filling up the oil.

I'm assuming it still worked normally because I it was stuffed in there so there was still a steal, plus he bolted it on pretty good. After I pulled the rubber piece out I double checked all the plenum bolts to make sure it was tightened. We'll see what happens....

Synthetic every 10k in a G. Did I miss something? Does anyone else follow this schedule?

I've heard of synthetic every 5k. Personally I do mine every 3k and it still comes out pitch black.

Most synthetic Oils manufacturers claim you can safely run the oil in the car up to 25k. Doing so I believe will void any warranty you have with the manufacturer. My car is no longer under warranty. 25K seems excessive to me. 10k seems like a reasonable happy medium. The reason I picked 10? Well it's easy for me to remember, Change oil 50k, 60k, 70k etc.

Even if you dumped synthetic in you engine and ran it for 1k miles it would come out pretty black.

just because it's black doesn't necessarily mean it has lost any of it's lubricating properties.

That's what she said.

 

Synthetic every 10k in a G. Did I miss something? Does anyone else follow this schedule?

I've heard of synthetic every 5k. Personally I do mine every 3k and it still comes out pitch black.

 

just because it's black doesn't necessarily mean it has lost any of it's lubricating properties.

 

Glug glig glug - My last Nissan

Hello All,
Ive been noticing excessive oil consumption issues since my last problem with my '04 G. ... There is no oil dripping anywhere in the obvious areas. I don't see any blue smoke indicating the oil is burning.... so where is it going? Any other areas I should be checking?
...

OK, so I have an early 2003 6MT. Babied the engine, kept below 2K RPM for first 1000 km, changed the oil every 5000km (3000 mi)...never had an issue.

Now, after 140,000 km (87,500 mi), all of a sudden it takes 2 quarts of oil between oil changes, and I got another warning light on hard braking before I brought it in.

WTF? Even my last car - a crappy 350 Chevy! - didn't burn so much (after many, many more miles). And here I read all kinds of people saying that it's acceptable or normal. The privilege of owning such a fine car blah blah blah.

I bought an Infiniti thinking I was getting a reliable car. Now I've got to dump this POS on some poor guy - I feel sorry for him, and I haven't even put it up for sale yet.
</rant>

 

What's the warning light? Are you referring to oil pressure light? Or a CEL?

When you say take it in, I'm assuming your mechanic. Or are you referring to taking it into sale?


Please let me know what you find and I will do the same as I work on my issue.

 

What's the warning light? Are you referring to oil pressure light? Or a CEL?

The "idiot light", meaning that there is no pressure. Or that I'm an idiot for buying the car.

When you say take it in, I'm assuming your mechanic. Or are you referring to taking it into sale?

Taking it to dealer for next scheduled oil change.

Seriously, having to top it up 3 times between changes is a bit much. Well, I've had this car for 8 1/2 years now so I guess its time to get rid of it. Too bad - it took me five years just to decide I liked the looks.

Problem is, there are no other cars that I like enough to buy (that I can afford). G37 = another Nissan with another oil burning problem. Plus, it will take at least another five years to decide I like the looks of a G37 (so far I don't).

IS - too small inside; I'm 6'4. Acura TL - definitely too ugly. BMW - way overpriced. Mazda - FWD. Corvette - been there, done that.

It would be bad karma to sell this vehicle to some unsuspecting kid, so I will use it as trade-in at a dealer. Don't feel bad about that. :evil:
But...what to buy?

 

My friend is 6' 6" we stuffed him i nthe back seat. entertaining to say the least....

I'm about 5'11" and I fit fine lol.

Any word on the oil issue?

Mine seems to be doing better since removing that rubber cup that was jammed in the plenum... I'm not sure how that affects anything but I assume oil somehow was getting into the cylinders and burning up...

I haven't been driving much though so who knows.... talked to a few other guys suggesting the "rings" might need replacing....

thoughts?

 

Sure. Buy another Nissan!

Any word on the oil issue?

Mine seems to be doing better since removing that rubber cup that was jammed in the plenum... I'm not sure how that affects anything but I assume oil somehow was getting into the cylinders and burning up...

I haven't been driving much though so who knows.... talked to a few other guys suggesting the "rings" might need replacing....

thoughts?

Talked to the dealer.
Their response was to start looking through my service history to find a "gap" between oil changes. (like I do all my oil changes at their dealership!)

F*ckers.

So, it's clear that Nissan has planned its strategy: blame the customer on not doing enough oil changes.

F*ckers.

They quoted an obscene amount of money for a new engine. Sure, like I'd do that. At the same dealership. At any dealership...

Which got me thinking about putting a VQ37 in my G35. It would go!

 

indeed .

 

did you have the oil changed at any Infiniti dealer? it should all be part of your service history.

 

The service record thing is relatively new.

 

I have paper copies of all my service records.
But, it's irrelevant: the car is out of warranty.
And Nissan has figured out its strategy...

 

Wow 500, you seem like an angry and bitter guy. Let me get this straight. You have a relatively nice looking car that has functioned well for 8 1/2 years and now you're starting to have some problems (as one would expect with an older car w/high miles). You're also upset because you're 6'4" (Would you prefer to be 5'2"?) and can't fit in some of the cars you like and can afford? You're posts scream of sarcasm, you can't take a joke (it's not like you're 4'9" and GZ called you a midget), and have committment issues (5 years to decide you like a car?). Kinda hostile and defensive over an OC issue. Are you sure that is all that's bothering you? Cheer up! :mrgreen: Things could be much worse if that is the extent of your troubles.

 

Wow 500, you seem like an angry and bitter guy.

No freaking kidding?
I paid damned good money for a car that doesn't last as long as a shitty Chrysler K-car?

Let me get this straight. You have a relatively nice looking car that has functioned well for 8 1/2 years and now you're starting to have some problems (as one would expect with an older car w/high miles).

Who says it functioned "well"?
Drinking a quart of oil every 600 miles is "some problems"? It means a new engine, that will cost a lot of money.
What I expect is that a "premium" vehicle will last more that 87,500 miles. That's not asking too much, in my opinion.

You're also upset because you're 6'4" (Would you prefer to be 5'2"?)

No, I'm not. Why would I be?
I just won't buy an IS because they're too cramped inside.
That car would be my next one, otherwise.
Toyotas seem to have a better reputation for durability (and accelerating floor mats; I know); I see where people get over 200,000 miles on them.

you can't take a joke (it's not like you're 4'9" and GZ called you a midget)

That was a joke? Some funny guy.
Reminds me of my dog, who can't walk past a lamppost or tree without feeling compelled to do his own kind of "post".

have committment issues (5 years to decide you like a car?).

I didn't buy it for the looks.
(It's nice from the side, but the front view is pretty plain)
But where do you get off saying I have a commitment issue? I'm the guy who has owned the car for 8 years...you can't have it both ways.

Kinda hostile and defensive over an OC issue.

You are only half right. Hostile, shit yeah!
Defensive - no, that would be Nissan who is defensive.

Maybe you will understand when your G hits that kind mileage, and the dealer tries to tell you it's your fault that its burning oil.

If you keep the car that long - depends on YOUR commitment level.

Anyhow, if even just one person questions what they are getting into before buying an Infiniti, my job will be done. Beware!

 

I posted on another thread so I won't repeat everything... and thank you, Gilley for your response... I'm having some serious oil consumption problems now that are giving me a twitch.. my question is this a widespread problem with infiniti? Mine is an 07 G35 Journey.

 

ljhyer, ....journey....I'm guessing sedan then. you have a different motor than the motor in question here. I am unaware if there is an OC issue with that motor.

old motor VQ35DE, your motor VQ35HR
most of the OC issues are with the "revup" version of the DE.

 

I did the seafoam treatment and car is running much better now. It's been about two weeks and oil levels appear the same. Who knows if it has anything to do with seafoam or the fact that the rubber piece was pulled out.

How do you know if the rings need replacing? I do notice a slight "tapping" sound coming from the engine during acceleration. I had a friend who ran his car out of oil many years ago and a very loud tapping sound came out (i believe piston actually coming in contact with cylinder head?) and the mechanic told him he had to scrap the car because it wasn't worth fixing. the difference here though is he had a very loud tapping sound and it was constant, and there was a significant loss of power.

my car has no noticeable loss of power (in actuality it feels as if some power was restored) and the tapping sound is very faint. I think it may still ahve to do something with my cam shaft positioning...

thoughts what this faint tapping sound may be?

 

Any thoughts on my "tapping" problem? Now that I think of it, it's more of a rattle. The sound only occurs during acceleration and is most audible at about 3k rpm. Sounds gone if I remove my foot from the accelerator even if the engine is coming down from high RPMs.

Thoughts?