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OMFG! My car just scared the he'll out of me. I started it, it stalled. Thinking it was just me I kept on going. About a mile later the car starts shaking and of course I freak out. It won't rev passed 2500rpm and just shakes.
Long story short, i reset the EDU n cleaned the MAF and all is well now. My guess is either from the plenum spacer install last week or maybe some water in the intake.

Phewwwwwwwwww

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There are some throttle body relearn procedures that sometimes need to be done after a plenum spacer install or any time the throttle body is disconnected. If it happens again, let us know.
 

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I've been thinking my idle is back to being a bit high like 850 to 900 but with all the cold weather and my short drive, was also considering the car isn't really warming up 100%. Today I stopped for a minute and put it in neutral with the fan and radio off and I'm right at 600. It is idling higher if I just put it to neutral as I'm driving to let it settle but that must be normal. I know the accessories are supposed to be off when checking it.
I saved a printout of all the resets for future needs though.
 

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I just replaced my Rain-X wiper blades with Bosch ICON... drove 600mi... starting to think I should have stuck with the Rain-X fo sho, already streaking and seem like lower quality construction. Derp :roll:
 

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I have something from SAMS for wiper blades. Hybrid is part of the name (model) but a brand name of some sort.

I'll re-post another time to list them specifically b/c the passenger side swipe doesn't contact the outer windshield curve at all. It was not the ideal fitment.
 

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I've had good results from the $8 Goodyear blades from Costco. They seem to work better than the expensive blades I bought at the auto parts store.
 

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Took about 3hrs. Driver's side cat bolts snapped off so took forever to get the old ones off and find some replacements.

Once that was done though the Ark bolted up with no fitment issues at all which was clutch because I was running out of time at the shop before I'd have to leave her overnight.

Word of advice for anyone that's gunna put one of these on....bolt the extensions to the Xpipe BEFORE installing it, it'll save a good 15min of trying to tighten this area down.

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I may swing by the Nissan Dealer one of these days just to see if they can quote me a fix or diag fee for my darn trunk.
Neither fob will work, I checked the valet button and I think I checked the right fuse although there might be more fuses.... I'm kind of beyond messing with it unless they try to nail me on big $$.
 

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05 G35 100k+ interior refresh...

Last week I did quite a bit to renew the interior, it was getting nasty:

DRIVER’S SIDE FLOORMAT REFRESH

o Cleaned floormat
o Re-dyed (RIT black dye applied with large hand brush) driver's side floor mat. (dry on patio 24hrs, brush out excess dye, and wash again)
o Covered worn spot with cutout from brand new set of black floor mats, (chose a dense, tight, short nap that would resist heel wear... hand-sewn in tight with needle and thread).

Also completely removed both front seats from vehicle to detail carpet beneath...

SHIFT KNOB, GATE, BASE, AND LEATHER BOOT REFRESH

(really wish I had taken a before pic... huge difference. However, it was your typcial 100k + shift knob)

o Removed the aluminum shift gate, sanded with 600 to 1200 grit wet or dry auto sandpaper - 3M brand (1200 grit provides smooth finish but still gives you the brushed aluminum look, be sure to use smooth, long, straight strokes, spent a lot of time getting this perfect), painted the numbering orange and red with needle (use needle to drop paint in etching and immediately wipe excess with fingers), Accelerated drying with blow dryer, (not too hot) then protected with 3 coats of clear (Rustoleum enamel clear spray).

Orange shift gate lettering looks really good with orange displays and console lighting...

o Pulled apart shift knob, replaced the center piece of leather with a new strip of leather. Cleaned and renewed side leather pieces with Doc Bailey's black leather kit. (clean, apply with sponge, dab to remove excess, dry, repeat 3 times)

o Once you remove lower aluminum shift knob base the center is simply a plastic piece that snaps out, then you can re-cover with fabric of choice. I chose to stitch leather to plastic on backside with thread (like a corset) and glued back to shift knob with gorilla glue. (clamp tight across top, center and bottom for one hour, for glue drying and curing) Gorilla glue holds great for this type of application...

o Cut out shift gate rectangle slot starting with an 'X' and continue to modify for perfect fitment. Scraped all surfaces clean of old adhesive and glued back in with Gorilla glue.

o Sanded aluminum shift base with 600 to 1200 grit (wet) - no clear coat.

o Replaced black thread on shift boot with matching orange thread.

STEERING WHEEL STITCHING REFRESH

o Completely removed steering wheel from vehicle and then removed stitching (it was frayed and extremely faded)
o Prepped and cleaned leather with leather cleaner and restored with Doc Baileys black leather detail kit. (steering grip along stitching line only, NOT outside of wheel grip or SRS center - airbag)
o Re-stitched with new orange 3 ply waxed linen thread.

Sorry I wasn't able to document more for those who wanted to see the whole process, I was in a rush to get it done... Enough yapping, here are the results. (iPhone pics)



 

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Hope to get better/closeup pics of new steering wheel stitching soon... (Click '+' in Photobucket twice to enlarge image) This was a lengthy project over the course of 4 days, but it was a lot of fun and well worth the results...
 

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I have done quite a few things to the G since my last post here. So here is the list lol:

Suspension & Body & Engine:
Bilstein PSS9 coil overs, SPL end links, Rogue Engineering sway bars (front and back), Ichiba V2 wheel spacers (15mm back),poly K2 remix front bumper, poly Impul sides, vented catch can, stainless hose covers, polished aluminum bracket to prevent my cross over coolant hose from rubbing.

Electronics:
Alpine INA-W900, Alpine type x-pro 6.5 (front speakers), Alpine type r coax (rear speakers), JL8W7, Alpine V9 (100rms x 4 + 500rms x 1), PAC SWI-RC (steering wheel control interface), PAC TR-7, EFX 1/0 gauge power & ground, 4080 side pocket fiberglass enclosure, Escort 9500ix, Billet Blend Mount, Escort ZR-4s.

Parts Currently on Order:
3 pod a-pillar, air/fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge, volts gauge, Strafespeed rear bumper, AMS Slayer hood, K2 carbon fiber splitter, momo shift knob, SPC control arms (front), polished coolant overflow tank, polished power steering tank.

I think that is pretty well everything. I have been stashing parts all winter so I am looking forward to summer being here to continue the project. I really want the new NWP throttle body, but it has been on back order for quite some time :/
 

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