synthetic / conventional oil?
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I have always been told *not* to use synthetic oil at least through the break-in period. Something about conventional oil's ability to seal pits (or whatever) that are caused during the break-in process of a new engine.
Although I have heard this from several mechanics, I don't know how much of this is true. Personally, I don't go to synthetic until 7k, just to be on the "safe" side.
peace
Although I have heard this from several mechanics, I don't know how much of this is true. Personally, I don't go to synthetic until 7k, just to be on the "safe" side.
peace
Joined
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19 Posts
You are not suppose to use synthetic oil during break in becuase it will not allow the engine to properly break in. It protects to good.
Ah, yes, the holy war of synth vs. conventional. 
As far as break-in - Porsche, Viper, BMW, among others - use synth in the factory. "If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me."
Some/most manufacturers used to use a special oil for break-in, this is rarely (never?) the case with modern motors. The primary concern would now be particulate matter coming free from friction components and contaminating the oil - many sports car drivers will replace the oil at the end of documented break-in (1200 miles in the G).
By some stretch, there are experiences that say that motors take 5-10k to really "come in". That could say that your full break-in period is 5-10k miles, at least for full performance - regardless if you baby it for that whole period or not.
I think that it comes down to what you're comfortable with. For every person who has documentative proof that one option works better, there's one with the exact opposite information. I don't think it matters enough to worry; if you have the money and are willing to spend it on synth, do it. If you don't or see no value in it, don't.
Personally, I use synth. Currently, I'm using Royal Purple - and I've been made a convert from Mobil1. My fuel economy did go up a consistent 2mpg, and my SOP ButtMeter says the car is a little stronger (see VDC thread ).
When I have the chance I rev the holy hell out of my motor. For those moments, I want the absolute maximum in protection - I have faith in synth to give that where I don't in conventional oils.
YMMV, caveat emptor, all that stuff.
Kal.
As far as break-in - Porsche, Viper, BMW, among others - use synth in the factory. "If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me."
Some/most manufacturers used to use a special oil for break-in, this is rarely (never?) the case with modern motors. The primary concern would now be particulate matter coming free from friction components and contaminating the oil - many sports car drivers will replace the oil at the end of documented break-in (1200 miles in the G).
By some stretch, there are experiences that say that motors take 5-10k to really "come in". That could say that your full break-in period is 5-10k miles, at least for full performance - regardless if you baby it for that whole period or not.
I think that it comes down to what you're comfortable with. For every person who has documentative proof that one option works better, there's one with the exact opposite information. I don't think it matters enough to worry; if you have the money and are willing to spend it on synth, do it. If you don't or see no value in it, don't.
Personally, I use synth. Currently, I'm using Royal Purple - and I've been made a convert from Mobil1. My fuel economy did go up a consistent 2mpg, and my SOP ButtMeter says the car is a little stronger (see VDC thread
).When I have the chance I rev the holy hell out of my motor. For those moments, I want the absolute maximum in protection - I have faith in synth to give that where I don't in conventional oils.
YMMV, caveat emptor, all that stuff.
Kal.
Joined
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267 Posts
Bah!
How about a compromise!? Use a synthetic blend. It is true that traditional oil is better at sealing than synthetic... so use it for the first few weeks! If there is any dirt or shavings left in the engine, they will come lose and fall into the oil pan in the first few weeks. So change your oil after a short while. Then work your way up to synth, but start with the Blend.
It's worth paying the $30 for the initial oil change to make sure the factory debris is quickly removed.
Cheers...
How about a compromise!? Use a synthetic blend. It is true that traditional oil is better at sealing than synthetic... so use it for the first few weeks! If there is any dirt or shavings left in the engine, they will come lose and fall into the oil pan in the first few weeks. So change your oil after a short while. Then work your way up to synth, but start with the Blend.
It's worth paying the $30 for the initial oil change to make sure the factory debris is quickly removed.
Cheers...
Joined
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19 Posts
I see your point, but I *think* those cars are already broken In a little from the factory.Kalmairn said:Ah, yes, the holy war of synth vs. conventional.
As far as break-in - Porsche, Viper, BMW, among others - use synth in the factory. "If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me."
Some/most manufacturers used to use a special oil for break-in, this is rarely (never?) the case with modern motors. The primary concern would now be particulate matter coming free from friction components and contaminating the oil - many sports car drivers will replace the oil at the end of documented break-in (1200 miles in the G).
By some stretch, there are experiences that say that motors take 5-10k to really "come in". That could say that your full break-in period is 5-10k miles, at least for full performance - regardless if you baby it for that whole period or not.
I think that it comes down to what you're comfortable with. For every person who has documentative proof that one option works better, there's one with the exact opposite information. I don't think it matters enough to worry; if you have the money and are willing to spend it on synth, do it. If you don't or see no value in it, don't.
Personally, I use synth. Currently, I'm using Royal Purple - and I've been made a convert from Mobil1. My fuel economy did go up a consistent 2mpg, and my SOP ButtMeter says the car is a little stronger (see VDC thread
When I have the chance I rev the holy hell out of my motor. For those moments, I want the absolute maximum in protection - I have faith in synth to give that where I don't in conventional oils.
YMMV, caveat emptor, all that stuff.
Kal.
Joined
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3,412 Posts
I always use Mobil 1 full synthetic in my G. Nothing but the best for my Gina.
synthetic only. couldnt bear to dump it as soon as i got the car home so i did it at 1000miles
after taking my mazda MPV engine apart w/ 266,000 miles and seeing how clean and free of wear the parts were i swear by it.
mobil 1 wont break down under high temp/pressures and flows very well at cold temps for starting. right now i'm running 0w-30 for the cold months. dont think there is a conventional dino oil that is 0w
after taking my mazda MPV engine apart w/ 266,000 miles and seeing how clean and free of wear the parts were i swear by it.
mobil 1 wont break down under high temp/pressures and flows very well at cold temps for starting. right now i'm running 0w-30 for the cold months. dont think there is a conventional dino oil that is 0w
I've read that many people who switch to synth and have had the oil analysis done have shown high nickel content. This would seem to indicate higher wear than conventional oil.
I'm sticking with dino juice every 3000 miles until there is some conclusive evidence.
Lots of excellent info here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
I'm sticking with dino juice every 3000 miles until there is some conclusive evidence.
Lots of excellent info here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
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