[Stillen06coupe]

To me, the amp is the focal point of the system. Besides wattage, you have to look at the s/n ratio and the Total Harmonic Distortion of the amp at max power. I think the THD is the most important thing, cuz feeding CLEAN power is what makes it sound good. That's why I say the JL slash and HD amps are the best on the market. Great amps can make decent speakers sound good. But a crappy amp can blow a high quality speaker in no time

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[satan]

My 10W6v2 seems to have broken-in the last month, slams Way More than usual since. Guess I got the real thing this time. Was replaced after I blew the original.

 

[CashMonay]

Ill take the v3 why not haha

 

[Darth Kinetic]

Sounds like an EQ is needed and a new amp to replace the rear bose amp is suggested to spunk up the rear 6x9s and the rear side 3.5s and then an additional sub to be powered for the low end...all tapped into full range line level just prior to the rear amp input...yes?

 

[Gilley]

An EQ isn't needed. Just tap into the signal before it goes into the Bose amp and send it to your new sub amp.

 

[Darth Kinetic]

Is the signal beforw the bose amp full range or already lowended?

 

[Gilley]

Before the amp the signal is full range.

 

[Finiamh]

Let's give this thread a poke

So I have a 07 G35 sedan with Bose. I too am wanting to take the Bose amp and sub out of the equation and add my own.

From what I am reading here. If I pay someone to install, I need to tell them to take/find the 'clean' signal from the HU and tap into it before the amp and use something like the Audiocontrol LS2i(see pic) to give a good signal to the amp.


I also need to have them tap the 'power on' line from the amp as well.

Do I have those steps correct?

 

[rflett75]

I just want to double check this.

So when I add an amp to the stock radio, all I have to do is run the cabling for power and just tap into the L/R fader wire in the rear deck and I'm basically done?

Where do I run the remote wire on my aftermarket amp