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Discussion Starter #1
Hoping I have better luck here than I did at the dealership.

2011 G37S Coupe

This only happens in winter, regardless of temperature. The car is typically parked indoors but I've seen the same issue when parked overnight outdoors. About once every 2 weeks when I attempt to start the car, it starts and immediately shuts off. On my 2nd attempt its a much longer crank but inevitably fails to start (dealer explained this is as designed, excess fuel being burnt off). Usually on the 3rd attempt, the car starts. Once the car starts for the day, the problem will never reappear in the same day.

No warning on dashboard. No errors on computer.

I took it into Infiniti dealership last year. They had the car for a few days and could not reproduce the issue. They checked a number of systems and found no issue. At that time they told me to continue to watch the issue and come back "when it gets worse." The summer came and went and I didn't experience the issue once. They claimed they checked fuel and oxygen systems and found no issues.

I've reset ECU. Battery is less than a year old. Regular oil changes. 91 octane gas. Air filters less than a year old.

Last week the issue reappeared. Today again I had the issue. Only this time, it took me about 6 attempts to start the vehicle.

help!
 

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No ideas....

Do you recall thinking about anything you had done, serviced or changed on the car when it first began these symptoms?
Sounds like it's just cold weather related .... do you see a pattern for temps that it happens at versus when it starts just fine like over 40 degrees or below freezing ?

I'd be tempted to search the intermittent cold start probs in general if you haven't already, widen it to all makes or models of cars to see if you can find the top 3 or top 5 answers for narrowing it down.

I know these and most all cars have temp set points for the idle speed and that will regulate fuel flow/air mix but not sure if that can get off track or not. Seems like if it did, it could cause difficult starts. When it starts fine, do you see the various idle speeds on the tach as it goes from the cold start to warming up ?
Mine is over 1200 on very cold temps outside and other times it around 900 then after warming up dropping to the normal idle which is 650-700. Often times, the more clues or patterns you can connect, the better your chances or faster the fix.
 

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Sounds like same issue with my g35 coupe except mine will not start at all if I keep trying unless I give it a gas on my 2nd try or 3rd.

Did you change spark plug? It could be that or throttle body or could be fuel pump. It could be many things.
I also reset my ecu and no luck.

I never fixed mine because if I change all that it will cost me a lot, so I just give some gas when I start it in the winter.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Although the battery is only a year old, cold does affect batteries and these cars can behave oddly with a weak battery. Have the battery load checked.
 

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Although Gilley isn't very old, cold does affect him and he can behave oddly. For this reason, he must remain in Florida.
A m e n
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No ideas....

Do you recall thinking about anything you had done, serviced or changed on the car when it first began these symptoms?
Sounds like it's just cold weather related .... do you see a pattern for temps that it happens at versus when it starts just fine like over 40 degrees or below freezing ?

I'd be tempted to search the intermittent cold start probs in general if you haven't already, widen it to all makes or models of cars to see if you can find the top 3 or top 5 answers for narrowing it down.

I know these and most all cars have temp set points for the idle speed and that will regulate fuel flow/air mix but not sure if that can get off track or not. Seems like if it did, it could cause difficult starts. When it starts fine, do you see the various idle speeds on the tach as it goes from the cold start to warming up ?
Mine is over 1200 on very cold temps outside and other times it around 900 then after warming up dropping to the normal idle which is 650-700. Often times, the more clues or patterns you can connect, the better your chances or faster the fix.

No correlation between temperature (that I can tell). It starts fine in -20 degrees, sometimes doesn't in 5 degrees and vise versa.

When it finally starts, it idles about 1200 rpm for less than 15 seconds before it settles around 650. I really can't see a pattern. Sometimes I prime it before starting, that doesn't seem to help.

RE: Battery, when I initially had the issue I suspected the battery could be going bad. It was fairly weak, which is why I replaced it.

Its now happened 3 consecutive days, then started without issue on day 4.
 

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No correlation between temperature (that I can tell). It starts fine in -20 degrees, sometimes doesn't in 5 degrees and vise versa.

When it finally starts, it idles about 1200 rpm for less than 15 seconds before it settles around 650. I really can't see a pattern. Sometimes I prime it before starting, that doesn't seem to help.

RE: Battery, when I initially had the issue I suspected the battery could be going bad. It was fairly weak, which is why I replaced it.

Its now happened 3 consecutive days, then started without issue on day 4.
I'm confused as well. Sucks when there really isn't even a pattern to go by.
Your idle sounds like it fine / normal.
If the car, once running does not die out on you as you are going down the road or after start-up ,,,finally,, and a few minutes, that seems like a clue of some sort but to what, I do not know. :frown: Ie; The fuel pump could die out or be intermittent anytime so that would/could shut you down going down the road I would think.

It sounds like something related to the the initial start up settings for fuel or air ratios that goes batty once in a while. Maybe a sensor of some sort that gets or creates a wacky reading... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm confused as well. Sucks when there really isn't even a pattern to go by.
Your idle sounds like it fine / normal.
If the car, once running does not die out on you as you are going down the road or after start-up ,,,finally,, and a few minutes, that seems like a clue of some sort but to what, I do not know. :frown: Ie; The fuel pump could die out or be intermittent anytime so that would/could shut you down going down the road I would think.

It sounds like something related to the the initial start up settings for fuel or air ratios that goes batty once in a while. Maybe a sensor of some sort that gets or creates a wacky reading... ?
Absolutely no fault being recorded by the computer. I suspect fuel/oxygen mix on initial startup but I think a faulty sensor would be flagged by the computer. In the next week or so, I hope to just leave the car with Infiniti until they figure it out.

Will update post once issue is identified.

Thanks
 

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Just a hunch, but it might be the immobilizer sensor. So my lexus (i'm pretty certain most cars with this work the same way) has a RFID chip in the key, the keyhole has a sensor which detects if the chip is near giving it the okay to start the car. if you turn the key without the chip the car won't start or if it feels that "okay the chip is here so I can startup the engine") but then doesn't sense it right after it will probably disengage the engine. Of course same principle applies to push button starts too, I'd imagine. This is all speculation based on what I know of how the system works as you mentioned your battery is fine; check what the CCAs on your battery are but also based on your details you said it's not temperature related.

When you have that issue (assuming it's a push button) does the dash say at all that it doesn't detect the key after it dies?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally last Monday, after 6 attempts to start my car, the Check Engine Soon appeared on dash. By Tuesday, it disappeared but reappeared Wednesday.

The error came up as P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Performance Problem.

Brought the vehicle back to Infiniti dealership today. They "reprogram new engine control module". Supposedly some parameters were out of range but they couldn't tell me any specifics, since it's the computer diagnostic program which made the recommendation.

I will continue to monitor and update.
 

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Worth knowing, thanks for passing the info along.
At least they are on the trail of a code to follow up with.

OBD explanation on code 106 here ; http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106

As for causes listed, there are 7 or 8 you will see. One is something you can check or verify and worth a look if you have not done so yet IMO.

A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold
 

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Discussion Starter #12
** UPDATE **

Turns out the reprogram of ECU did not resolve the issue. I experienced fail start Thursday, 3 days after supposed fix. Back to Infiniti next week.

Stay tuned.
 

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** UPDATE **

Turns out the reprogram of ECU did not resolve the issue. I experienced fail start Thursday, 3 days after supposed fix. Back to Infiniti next week.

Stay tuned.
Oh damn .... good luck.
 

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G37 Coupe Odd Starting

I have the exact same behavior from my 2011G37 coupe.
On mine, the brake doesn’t go down as expected with the abnormal starts, then all works fine. No answers yet.
 
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