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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, this forum is for all you guys who would like to do their own alarm or remote starter.
I am currently installing the viper 791XV Remote starter / Alarm to my 2003.5 Infiniti G35.


http://directed.com/security/viper/viper_responder.asp#791XV

Below you will find tech support and a brief help guide on steps I think you would have trouble with.


Dash disassembly : There's one gold 10mm/Phillips screw behind the hood release. After that, just pull the panel straight toward you. Unplug all harness and let the dash lay on the drivers floor. The hood pop handle is really hard to take off, trust me when I say this, Leave it on! Take my word for it, I tried to take it off and it took me 30 minutes to get the wire back where it belongs.

Tach Wire: I ran the wire along with the hood pin wire but I did not connect it, I was told to leave it there incase I need it, but chances are, I don't.

Ignition wires: They're plainly visible; pretty straightforward. Don't forget to get both starter wires. The accessory wire looks like it just does the radio, but the climate controls don't work without it....so you need to power it up.
Parking lights/brake: Both are available in the large harness in the driver's kick, running to the rear of the car. Can also get parking lights at the dash dimmer.

Trunk release: It's blue, low current negative trigger, right at the switch on the dash. But there's a catch: It is disabled when the car's alarm is armed. Take your remote starter's trunk pop wire, and split it with two diodes. Send one to the blue trunk release wire, and the other to the car's unlock wire in the door. This will disarm the factory alarm and release the trunk at the same time.

Getting wires under the hood: There's a factory grommet somewhere above the gas pedal I think; fish your wires through here. (And tie them in such a way that they don't get caught up in the pedal.) After this, you'll notice that your wires are in this little "closet" on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, with no easy way to get them out into where the engine is. At the front of the "closet," notice two black plastic dots......pry one of these dots out to reveal a hole.......put some split loom over your wires for protection, and slide them through the hole.


12 Volts : White/Blue + Ignition Harness
Starter : White/Red + Ignition Harness
Second Starter : White/Green + Ignition Harness
Ignition : Black/Red + Ignition Harness
Second Ignition : N/A
Third Ignition : N/A
Accessory : White/Black + Ignition Harness
Second Accessory : N/A
Keysense : Black/Pink + Ignition Harness

Note : For the Lock/Unlock wires, You MUST run the Green/Blue lock and unlock wires from the alarm to the door panel.
The easiest way i found was to run the wire threw the black grommet thats not being use directly under the black hose running from the car to the door. Run the wire threw the gromment and make a slit into the black hose and run it directly threw there into the door. Now take out the speaker and the white bracket holding the speaker onto the door and reach into there and slide the wire threw. (Pictures coming soon)[/i]
Power Lock : Red/White - Drivers Switch In Door
Power Unlock : Blue/White - Drivers Switch In Door

Note: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the drivers kick panel.
Lock motor : Purple 5wi White Plug, pin 30 at BCM
Unlock motor : Yellow 5wi White Plug, pin 23 at BCM

Note: the red/blue wire is in one of the first harness on the top
Parking Lights (Positive) : Red/Blue + Drivers Kick Panel
Parking Lights (Negitive) : N/A
Hazards : Green/Red - Brown plug, pin 61 at BCM
Turn Signal (Left) : N/A
Turn Signal (Right) : N/A
Reverse Light : Orange + Drivers Kick Panel

Note: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel.
The driver door trigger is white in pin 14, the front passenger door is pink in pin 10, and the rear door trigger (on vehicles without navigation) is pink in pin 11. On vehicles with navigation systems the rear door trigger wire does not go to the BCM, instead use 2 separate pink wires in the driver kick panel in the harness that runs to the rear. Use all wires and diode isolate each.
Door Trigger : See notes - White 12 pin plug at BCM

Dome Supervision : Use Door Trigger Wire
Trunk/Hatch Pin : Red/White - White plug. pin 18 at BCM

Note: Unplug the brown harness that plugs into the factory hood pin switch and tap your hood pin wire onto it.
Hood Pin : Light Green/Black - Pin switch under hood on passenger side

Note: MAKE sure you connect your trunk release wire to the correct blue wire, it is located in the only BROWN harness!!!
Trunk/Hatch Release : Blue - Brown Plug, Pin 76 at BCM

Factory Alarm Arm : Arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm : Disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock : Single Pule Power Unlock

AIM: Jo3yf
'03.5 5AT Sedan | Brilliant Silver/Graphite | Premium | Winter | Heated Seats/mirrors
350z intake tube | Stillen CAB | Clear Corners | Drilled Pedals | Sick Audio Setup
View my car at http://www.cardomain.com/id/joebizz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm so proud of my self, I NEVER DID A ALARM IN MY LIFE, let alone a remote starter! IT WORKS it really really works! At first when I was done installing it, the remote starter wouldnt start, than I was like humm may be I should see what happenes if I take out the brake wire sensor, and guess what... IT started!!!! only thing next to do is hook up a relay to the parking lights so they work, and figure out why the car does not shut off when I remote start it and than insert the key and turn the ignition on than take it out, it stays on for some reason? also the double pulse unlock is really tricky, i dont understand it .... anyway I cannot believe this works.... I will keep you guys posted on... Oh yeah i cannot forget the single pulse to the door lock after remote starter shut down so the auto lights go off!!!

rlipps... lol I took my time writing that OTHER post.

AIM: Jo3yf
'03.5 5AT Sedan | Brilliant Silver/Graphite | Premium | Winter | Heated Seats/mirrors
350z intake tube | Stillen CAB | Clear Corners | Drilled Pedals | Sick Audio Setup
View my car at http://www.cardomain.com/id/joebizz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Guys, tonight my asst. mananger helped me.. If you take the channel 4 and channel 5 wires and hook one up to the lock wire and the other one up to the unlock wire, it will roll down and roll up all windows! ..amazing..
also i couldnt get the parking lights to work, I finally tired the red/blue wire behind the consol light switch, and it worked!

AIM: Jo3yf
'03.5 5AT Sedan | Brilliant Silver/Graphite | Premium | Winter | Heated Seats/mirrors
350z intake tube | Stillen CAB | Clear Corners | Drilled Pedals | Sick Audio Setup
View my car at http://www.cardomain.com/id/joebizz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I put it in my self at my job, circuit city road shop. I bought the system for 166 Shipped from directed.com (i get a discount because of my job. The alarm was so easy to install, if you need help i can guide you, all you need is a pair of wire cutters/strippers, electric tape, volt meter, 10mm wrench, a soder gun, and soder!
the job will take about 2 and a half to 3 hours for some one who has done it allready, and if you NEVER put in a alarm before, it might take about 7 hours. oh yeah you also need 4 dioads and 2 relays!

AIM: Jo3yf
'03.5 5AT Sedan | Brilliant Silver/Graphite | Premium | Winter | Heated Seats/mirrors
350z intake tube | Stillen CAB | Clear Corners | Drilled Pedals | Sick Audio Setup
View my car at http://www.cardomain.com/id/joebizz.
 

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In case you havn't figured it out yet, and for everyone else, the reason your car does not shut off is because you disconnected the brake wire. DEI remote starts will shut off four reasons:

1. You step on the brake (brake wire must be hooked up)

2. You over rev the engine (about 4000rpm on most cars, tach wire must be hooked up and programmed)

3. You open the hood (hood pin must be hooked up)

4. It times out. (user selectable on high end DEI alarms 1-60 minutes)

It sounds like you hooked your brown brake wire upto a 12VDC constant wire, and not a wire that goes to 12volts when you step on the pedal.

I've worked in the roadshop for four years, at three different circuit citys (toledo, dayton, beavercreek) and we wouldn't let ANYBODY who had never installed an alarm touch a car like this. Your RS manager must be a d!ck or something... This is a car that only the most experianced installers should mess with. Mostly because there are more 5v signals in the car then 12 volt since the BCM uses 5 volt logic for almost everything. I dunno, maybe I'm wrong!

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, I asked the rs mananger for help when my car wouldnt start at first, He said "i dont know" and walked away.. I was like are you kidding me, Its okay now that i put in the alarm i learned so much more, Its still working and i have no probs with the remote starter or alarm. Are you still working for Circuit City? what is your store location number

AIM: Jo3yf
'03.5 5AT Sedan | Brilliant Silver/Graphite | Premium | Winter | Heated Seats/mirrors
350z Intake Tube | Stillen CAB | Clear Corners | Drilled Pedals | Crazy Audio Setup | Stillen Cat Back
View my car at http://www.cardomain.com/id/joebizz. UPDATED!!
 

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I don't technically work there anymore, but I still keep my toolbox and some other tools there. With all the changes in the company lately it wasn't worth sticking around. I have a full time job that has me on the road monday through friday and I was working at CC on the weekends just because I like playing with other peoples cars. Its store location 3196, but I've also worked at 3189 and 3705 (Beavercreek, Dayton Mall, and Airport Highway). I would strongly suggest hooking the tach wire up. The system uses it as a protection, if the car revs too high the system will shut itself off. Of course our cars have this built in from the factory, but its still nice to have. Also, it uses the tach wire to reliably start the car each time. Voltage sense can be touchy and doesn't always work well. I've never heard of anyone NOT hooking up tach on their own vehicle. I know that there are CC shops that NEVER hook up tachs, and I've fixed many of those cars! It can be seen as a time saving method but in the long run it usually takes more time to fix it then it would to have done it right the first time.

Kevin
 

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Like I stated before I would always recomend hooking up the Tach wire. If nothing else it provides over rev protection (although that is built into the G). I was helping someone out on another forum and I snapped a picture of where the tach wire is on the Z, it should be exactly the same on the G. Basically, you have 6 ignition coils in the car, and they mount right on the spark plugs. If you remove the engine cover you can see the front two plugs (left and right) very well, and you can see the black module on top of them. Out of the module come three wires, all wrapped together in black tape. There are two wires that are common in all six modules, and one wire that is different in all six. Tap into the different color - I believe the common colors are black and white/blue.


Download Attachment: z Igniton Coilmurs.jpg
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Hey Guys!

I currently have my G35 in for a custom stereo install & the shop has recommended that they move the Body Control Module about 6 inches to make room for a midrange speaker.

They said they can move the module without cutting any wires.

Is this something that I should be concerned about?

Thanks, [cheers]
 

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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bizz

Hello, this forum is for all you guys who would like to do their own alarm or remote starter.
I am currently installing the viper 791XV Remote starter / Alarm to my 2003.5 Infiniti G35.


http://directed.com/security/viper/viper_responder.asp#791XV

Below you will find tech support and a brief help guide on steps I think you would have trouble with.


Dash disassembly : There's one gold 10mm/Phillips screw behind the hood release. After that, just pull the panel straight toward you. Unplug all harness and let the dash lay on the drivers floor. The hood pop handle is really hard to take off, trust me when I say this, Leave it on! Take my word for it, I tried to take it off and it took me 30 minutes to get the wire back where it belongs.

Tach Wire: I ran the wire along with the hood pin wire but I did not connect it, I was told to leave it there incase I need it, but chances are, I don't.

Ignition wires: They're plainly visible; pretty straightforward. Don't forget to get both starter wires. The accessory wire looks like it just does the radio, but the climate controls don't work without it....so you need to power it up.
Parking lights/brake: Both are available in the large harness in the driver's kick, running to the rear of the car. Can also get parking lights at the dash dimmer.

Trunk release: It's blue, low current negative trigger, right at the switch on the dash. But there's a catch: It is disabled when the car's alarm is armed. Take your remote starter's trunk pop wire, and split it with two diodes. Send one to the blue trunk release wire, and the other to the car's unlock wire in the door. This will disarm the factory alarm and release the trunk at the same time.

Getting wires under the hood: There's a factory grommet somewhere above the gas pedal I think; fish your wires through here. (And tie them in such a way that they don't get caught up in the pedal.) After this, you'll notice that your wires are in this little "closet" on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, with no easy way to get them out into where the engine is. At the front of the "closet," notice two black plastic dots......pry one of these dots out to reveal a hole.......put some split loom over your wires for protection, and slide them through the hole.


12 Volts : White/Blue + Ignition Harness
Starter : White/Red + Ignition Harness
Second Starter : White/Green + Ignition Harness
Ignition : Black/Red + Ignition Harness
Second Ignition : N/A
Third Ignition : N/A
Accessory : White/Black + Ignition Harness
Second Accessory : N/A
Keysense : Black/Pink + Ignition Harness

Note : For the Lock/Unlock wires, You MUST run the Green/Blue lock and unlock wires from the alarm to the door panel.
The easiest way i found was to run the wire threw the black grommet thats not being use directly under the black hose running from the car to the door. Run the wire threw the gromment and make a slit into the black hose and run it directly threw there into the door. Now take out the speaker and the white bracket holding the speaker onto the door and reach into there and slide the wire threw. (Pictures coming soon)[/i]
Power Lock : Red/White - Drivers Switch In Door
Power Unlock : Blue/White - Drivers Switch In Door

Note: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the drivers kick panel.
Lock motor : Purple 5wi White Plug, pin 30 at BCM
Unlock motor : Yellow 5wi White Plug, pin 23 at BCM

Note: the red/blue wire is in one of the first harness on the top
Parking Lights (Positive) : Red/Blue + Drivers Kick Panel
Parking Lights (Negitive) : N/A
Hazards : Green/Red - Brown plug, pin 61 at BCM
Turn Signal (Left) : N/A
Turn Signal (Right) : N/A
Reverse Light : Orange + Drivers Kick Panel

Note: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel.
The driver door trigger is white in pin 14, the front passenger door is pink in pin 10, and the rear door trigger (on vehicles without navigation) is pink in pin 11. On vehicles with navigation systems the rear door trigger wire does not go to the BCM, instead use 2 separate pink wires in the driver kick panel in the harness that runs to the rear. Use all wires and diode isolate each.
Door Trigger : See notes - White 12 pin plug at BCM

Dome Supervision : Use Door Trigger Wire
Trunk/Hatch Pin : Red/White - White plug. pin 18 at BCM

Note: Unplug the brown harness that plugs into the factory hood pin switch and tap your hood pin wire onto it.
Hood Pin : Light Green/Black - Pin switch under hood on passenger side

Note: MAKE sure you connect your trunk release wire to the correct blue wire, it is located in the only BROWN harness!!!
Trunk/Hatch Release : Blue - Brown Plug, Pin 76 at BCM

Factory Alarm Arm : Arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm : Disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock : Single Pule Power Unlock

AIM: Jo3yf
'03.5 5AT Sedan | Brilliant Silver/Graphite | Premium | Winter | Heated Seats/mirrors
350z intake tube | Stillen CAB | Clear Corners | Drilled Pedals | Sick Audio Setup
View my car at http://www.cardomain.com/id/joebizz.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
 

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Hello, im currently having an issue with installing alarm remote starter.
Everything works fine, except for the unlock and lock, nothing happens.
Would like to confirm, all you needed to do was connect these wires accordingly?
Power Lock : Red/White - Drivers Switch In Door
Power Unlock : Blue/White - Drivers Switch In Door

much appreciated
 
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