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G35 XM / Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner Install

Have an install guide you'd like to share or even unformatted pictures? Contact the editor.

 

By Chuck (chirstius on http://www.6mt.net/)
chirstius@megapathdsl.net

Description

This install guide provides an alternate mounting method of the satellite unit for those who have the G35 coupe with the Bose Premium Stereo option. Since this method does not require the use of the 2-sided foam tape, removal of the satellite unit will only require the loosening of 2 bolts (and not prying the unit loose from the tape and prying the tape loose from the unit!). Should you choose to switch providers or decide at some point that you no longer want satellite radio this method makes the removal process a breeze. Please note that the installation method described here will require making some minor modifications to both the Bose amplifier and its mounting bracket. Anyone whos fairly handy should have no difficulty making these modifications but please remember - you do so at your own risk!

Cost

The XM tuner used in this install was purchased through Grubbs Infiniti. Click here for current pricing. I chose to use the stock XM antenna included with the kit and mount it inside the car on the rear deck. There are smaller antennas available and prices may vary. Heres what the two components (Tuner Module and Antenna) look like.

XM Tuner Module
Satellite Tuner Module


XM Antenna

Tools Required

  • 10mm socket wrench

  • Phillips screwdriver

  • Dremel (or other rotary tool) with metal cutting and grinding attachments

  • Drill and drill bit

  • Scissors

  • Sandpaper

  • G35 Sedan Satellite Module mounting brackets and hardware (included in the Grubbs kit)

  • Small zip ties

  • 2 10mm M6x12 bolts, 2 M6 lock washers, 2 M6 nuts (these will need to be purchased)

Installation

Step 1: Locate the Satellite Wiring Harness

Remove the trunk mat (or mats as the case may be) to expose the spare tire.

Now remove the spare to allow access to the nuts holding the left-hand shroud in place. Using the 10mm socket wrench remove the nuts holding the shroud and work the shroud over and off to the right. Beneath the shroud you will find the Bose amplifier and its mounting bracket.

Here's a close-up of the amplifier (you can see the satellite harness just above the unit, it's the white connector):

Detach the cables from the amplifier and then remove the nuts holding it in place. You can now remove the amplifier and you will have a clear view of the satellite wiring harness. It is the white connector shown below. Note the tape where the cable goes into the plastic wire loom, you may need to remove it and release some slack on your satellite harness - more on that later.

Step 2: Prepare the Satellite Tuner Module

This is fairly straightforward, it's just a matter of attaching the mounting brackets to the sides of the tuner unit. If you purchased the Grubbs kit look for the two L-shaped brackets and mounting screws.  The brackets will have 3 holes drilled on one edge and 2 holes on the other, the edge with only 2 holes will line up over the screw holes on the satellite unit.  Using the mounting screws supplied attach the brackets to the side of the tuner module. You should end up with something like this:

Step 3: Prepare the Amplifier Mounting Bracket

This is where things get ugly. And I'll be honest, I didn't take as many pictures as I should have during this process but I have pictures of most of the important "milestones" and you should be able to figure out the in-between steps once you see those :)  You may notice some oddities in these pictures like the amp being attached, then off, then back, brackets missing, and so on.  When I was doing this install I was winging it as I went - trial and error.  So these pictures represent that trial and error process, but I will try to present the steps here in what I feel will be the most efficient method had I known where I was going to end up when I started. With that out of the way let's move on...

Remove the amplifier from it's mounting bracket by removing the 4 bolts at it's corners.

This next step is where I wish I had a better picture, but it involves lining up the satellite module mounting bracket over a hole on the amplifier mounting bracket.  The hole to use is highlighted below:

Line up the satellite module over these holes like this:

Using a drill with a 1/4" bit, drill out (widen) the center hole on the satellite module bracket and also drill out (widen) the rightmost hole in the amplifier bracket (you can just line them up as above, hold 'em steady and drill through both). Next, insert one of the M6x12 bolts through the newly drilled out holes and loosely tighten one of the M6 nuts onto it.  You should be able to rotate the satellite unit easily around the bolt.

Pivot the satellite module over until the rightmost hole of the module bracket (free end) lines up over the amplifier bracket. You will need to mark that location and drill it out as above. I didn't get a "before" picture of this but I have some "afters" and they should give you a better idea of how to line things up:

A picture of how the module sits on the amplifier mounting bracket using the existing and newly drilled mounting holes. NOTE: Make sure you have the satellite unit oriented so that the cables will connect to the end hanging off the mounting bracket (left side):

Step 4: Modify the Amplifier

Everything was looking great at this point, until I went to reinstall the amplifier to the bottom of the bracket. In all my mounting gusto I had overlooked the fact that the newly drilled mounting hole was very close to the existing amplifier mounting hole. In fact it was so close that the satellite module mounting bracket was partially covering it (see above image as well):

In addition to blocking the hole, the nut on the bolt being used to hold the satellite module in place was overlapping the amplifier itself.  The solution to both of these problems is a Dremel.

First I marked the satellite module bracket and used a grinding attachment to take just enough material off to clear the amplifier mounting hole (not much).

Next up was the amplifier itself.  Make sure to orient the amplifier properly (as it will be mounted) before you start marking and cutting! You should end up cutting material from the side of the amplifier opposite from where the cables connect. Line up the amplifier on the underside of the amplifier mounting bracket with the module in place and a nut installed on both bolts.  Eyeball the amount of material you need to remove from the amplifier mounting tab and mark it.  I used a Sharpie to mark a diagonal line across the tab. Put a cutting wheel on the Dremel and cut along your line. NOTE: Wear eye protection when you are cutting the amplifier. The metal is fairly thick and I shattered 2 cutting wheels while trying to make my cut.  In one case I had a piece of the wheel hit me in the face below my eye. Take the cut slow, you may need to complete it from multiple angles with some relief cuts along the way, just take your time. Also, make sure you cover the connectors and the perforated sides of the amplifier with something (I wrapped it in a towel) so that no metal shavings get inside! Once I was done with my cut, I put the grinding wheel back on and smoothed out the edges. I wish I had more pictures of this process but at the time I wasn't sure it was going to work, so I waited until the end. Use the pictures below as a guide.

Amplifier with the mounting tab "notched":

Detail of the "notched" tab - before grinding:

Finally, test fit everything:

And a close-up:

Step 5: Mount the Satellite Module and Amplifier to the Bracket

Assuming everything fits, now is the time to properly mount everything to the amplifier bracket. One thing you might notice is that the Satellite Module sits just on, or just above some of the raised sections of the amplifier bracket. I was worried about metal to metal contact occurring in these locations from road vibrations while driving so I took some of the foam strips included in the Grubbs kit, cut them to size with scissors, and stuck them down anywhere I thought there would be contact:

Finally reattach the amplifier and tighten down the 4 bolts holding it. Then attach the Satellite Module to the bracket making sure to use the lock washers to avoid having the nuts work loose from vibration.

Step 6: Install the Bracket in the Vehicle and Connect the Wiring

Ok, the hard stuff is mostly over.  Now it's time to get the unit installed into the trunk and wired.  Before mounting the amplifier bracket down I used some sandpaper to remove the paint/coating in the trunk to get to bare metal at the bottom of one of the mounting posts. I don't have pictures of this process (once again) but I have highlighted the post I used to attach the ground wire here (you can just see it peeking out from beneath the liner):

In the above image you can also see where I attached the grounding wire to the satellite unit. I then used zip-ties to secure the cable to the existing amplifier loom and tucked any slack beneath the trunk liner.

At this point you can reconnect the amplifier cables and secure the bracket down to the trunk with the nuts you previously removed. Remember to leave the nut off the post where the grounding wire has been run since the plastic shroud needs to go over it before you button it up.

When I went to attach the satellite cable I found that it reached, but there was a sharp bend in the cable that I wasn't happy with.  I found that if I removed the electrical tape that sealed up the end of the plastic loom and worked some slack out of it I could relieve the strain on the cable.  I trimmed off the excess plastic loom and then sealed everything back up with electrical tape.

The only thing left to do was to run the antenna cables from the rear deck to the satellite unit. I placed the antenna where I wanted it on the rear deck:

And then I ran the cables through the rubber molding that runs around the hole between the trunk and the back seat when the seat is down. Once again I did not get pictures of this process but there are some shots of how to get the molding off in a different Satellite install guide which you can find here. The specific shot that shows the molding off is towards the end of the install.  The molding just pulls off and it was easy to tuck the antenna wires in as I pushed it back into place.

Once you have the cables run inside the molding and out into the trunk measure the length of your run to the satellite unit (you will have much more cable than the length you need) and then make a neat coil to take up the slack.  I zip-tied the coil and then placed it under the trunk lining. I then ran the 2 antenna leads under the amplifier and up to the satellite unit.  The Grubbs kit came with some small plastic wire loom that I thought would dress out the antenna cables nicely so I ran them inside the loom where they were exposed as they connected to the satellite module:

Guess what... you're almost done!

Step 7: Button it up

If you have not already done so at this point record your Satellite module's Radio ID.  You should have gotten a little sticker for this in the Grubbs kit, but it never hurts to have it in more than one place if you should lose that sticker. You will need this ID to activate your XM service.

When you start your car and hit the SAT button the radio should automatically to go XM station 1 and you should hear the message about how to activate your unit.  If you are hearing the message, activate your XM subscription and enjoy! If not, recheck all the wiring, especially the ground cable.  If you get a LOADING message on the head unit that doesn't go away try moving the car, you may be in a dead spot where you can't get a signal.

Once you are sure everything is working you can replace the plastic shroud - be careful of the antenna wires when doing this! - tighten down the nuts on the shroud, replace the spare tire and trunk mats and you are ready to go.

If you have any further questions, ask away in our Coupe or Sedan Forums.

 

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