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Yeah ... I was beating around the bush.
The variables are beyond my math looking at the changes but the simplest approach may be a systems health check.....
- If the motor has good compression and the injectors are metering the correct fuel and the afr is correct, then I suppose the devil is in the other details.
Had motor compression checked, 286 across all cylinders except 5(5 has always been odd with plugs, and oil on plug due to valve cover, 280 here-no worries) not sure how to check if the injectors are metering or atomizing properly(I suspect this could be an issue though, running bg44k today with italian tune up, I'll let you know how that goes). According to the tuner at ECS performance in CT, wicked intelligent guy, the AFR is at stoich throughout his dyno pulls, drops to 12.5 without hesitation at wot, and has a flat line on top of each gear shift-meaning no Knock sensing that would retard timing.
-Have the Osiris mapping checked and verified.
How do I do this? can I do this myself with my standard version of osiris?
-Make sure the total exhaust system is air tight.
Had my Stillen full cat back exhaust welded at the mid pipe connection sleeve(shitty design allos air to escape both sides, and replaced cheap clamps that Stillen provides towards the Axle back portion of the muffler with heavy duty full wrap clamps from NAPA.
I see no mention of Check Engine Lights or SES so maybe that is a good sign for the various sensors and such.
I agree here, but I hate my life right now also because there have been no lights, until the c1109 c1108 u1000 intermittent stored abs codes reared their ugly faces.
I'd be leaning toward something that was wrong earlier and did not get the chance to be fixed or improved with all your add on's. If the motor compression wasn't effected by anything you did, it could be the culprit and would STILL be the culprit. Think about things in those terms first and work your way through it. IOW, assume the common denominator hasn't changed even though your list is of changes you did. Separate the two.
Trying, and thanks for the helpful advice...I'm going to figure this out, and have the first ever G35 with every sensor completely replaced with 100k from 2003 at some point it seems.
Gilley's point really is the worst case scenario ..... the problem wasn't tracked down earlier and now, there is a distinct possibility any number of the new adds or changes could be introducing troubles and you'd not even know it. When troubleshooting or even doing add-on mods, many times, the owner takes it once step at a time until each item has proven itself before going on to the next one and accordingly, you'll see lots of posts where someone is looking for help to pin down a problem after they added 3 or 4 new mods.
I've completely fucked up here. Now, that my mind has matured, and my wallet has flattened considerably, I will for sure take this approach going forward. Thanks for introducing that perspective.
I can imagine a situation where a person gets their car in a shop for some exhaust or muffler work on Wednesday and a new clutch on Friday. Then lets say on Sunday they are driving it for a few hours on errands and hear some strange ratting or metallic noises. Maybe it's a pipe rubbing under the car from exhaust work or a heat shield or maybe it's something with the clutch ... ? ?
Thanks again guys, Ill keep chasing the issue.
Have an appointment booked with lia infiniti up here in albany,ny for thursday.
Im going to have them drive the car with the consult II connected to look for can communication abnormality; due to the fact that the engine performs perfect at a stand still or on dyno.
Hoping its something related to front wheel sensors, g sensor, tcm, abs/vdc unt, or grounds.
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