2003 Infiniti G35 No Power in Low Rpms - 6MT.net Infiniti G35/G37/GTR Forums
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post #1 of 109 Old 10-29-2015, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Default 2003 Infiniti G35 No Power in Low Rpms

Bought car for 9k in 2013 @60k mi
Car had minor defect to paint, and interior was like new
Car had small hole in exhaust near muffler that made the car more responsive, deeper growl, and more fuel efficient....until the hole widened, then the performance went away, and my story of modification started...

Mods:
Stillen Cold Air Intake, Z-Tube, K&N Cone Filter
370z Injectors
ACT Stage 1 Racing Clutch
ACT Lightweight Billet Aluminum Flywheel
Stillen Headers
Stillen High Flow Cats
Stillen True Dual Exhaust Gen 1
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump

Hi everyone, I have been chasing the original responsiveness the G had when I first bought it to no avail.

I have added many modifications(the ones you see above), and replaced almost every sensor/electronic/component under the hood:
Knock Sensor
Knock Sensor Harness
Cam sensors
Crank Position sensor
Maf Sensor
Rear 02 Sensors
Front 02 Sensors (1 twice on drivers side)
Spark Plugs -OEM
Coil Packs -OEM
Coil Pack Sub Harness(connects to coils 1 and 3)
Injectors -2008 370Z
Battery(cleaned Ground)
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Differential Oil
Transmission Oil
Front/Rear Wheel Speed Sensors
Throttle Position Sensor
VTC Solenoid Valves
Evap Canister Purge Solenoid Valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator Passenger Side
Fuel Pump/Filter
Oil Pressure Sensor

Sadly, after replacing all of these parts, the only thing I have left I can replace would be the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, and the ECU that I know of...

I should mention that the car has been flashed with Osiris and dynoed at 280rwhp, however, the car does not feel like it has anywhere near that amount of HP at the wheels. The car is very sluggish on takeoff(feels like it is going to stall), and has no power up until 4800 RPM

I am very confused, but optimistic, and willing to learn about what could be causing this problem.

If anyone has any idea as to what could be causing this vehicle to have 0 balls in the low rpm range, please give me some insight...

Last edited by daveyboy924; 10-07-2016 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Adding more replaced parts
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post #2 of 109 Old 11-06-2015, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Did I post this wrong? not 1 suggestion?

2003 G35 Coupe Aero 6MT Horizon Blue (vw 2016-custom) 105,000 miles 07Oct2016
Stillen Headers, Stillen True Dual Catback, Stillen HFC's,
Stillen CAI/K&N, 2008 370Z Injectors
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post #3 of 109 Old 11-06-2015, 03:06 PM
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I don't recall seeing the orig post last week so I'm not sure why that is. ( ?? )

I usually take note on most of these even though I'm not usually the better person to respond. I'm not a mods / builder-gifted person so my experience and know-how is pretty limited but I can sometimes pick up something or learn from others.

I'm confused a small hole in the exhaust would make a noticeable change in actual improvement (measured/proven) performance. I def know the better sounding exhaust makes about 15 % more butt-dyno hp by all that have experienced that magic though! lol

A bigger or growing hole could/should very likely affect the exhaust flow and back-pressure. Messing with that on a car or motorcycle is a bit of a science and for that reason, lots of R&D goes into it since improving on the OEM design is not always an easy task for an unrelated engineer.

As for how to insure or test there is a performance loss and find the culprit, others may have some good ideas or related experiences. You have a giant list of things that were changed out, yet it sounds like the car lost it's juice around the time of the muffler issue and it was never investigated or figured out before you went on your shopping spree and mod changes.

This time of year, the forums are a bit slower but someone will chime in for sure if they have some ideas .....
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'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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post #4 of 109 Old 11-06-2015, 09:24 PM
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You have done so many things to your car it's impossible to tell what might be the problem.
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post #5 of 109 Old 11-07-2015, 12:26 AM
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Yeah ... I was beating around the bush.
The variables are beyond my math looking at the changes but the simplest approach may be a systems health check.....

- If the motor has good compression and the injectors are metering the correct fuel and the afr is correct, then I suppose the devil is in the other details.

-Have the Osiris mapping checked and verified.

-Make sure the total exhaust system is air tight.

I see no mention of Check Engine Lights or SES so maybe that is a good sign for the various sensors and such.
I'd be leaning toward something that was wrong earlier and did not get the chance to be fixed or improved with all your add on's. If the motor compression wasn't effected by anything you did, it could be the culprit and would STILL be the culprit. Think about things in those terms first and work your way through it. IOW, assume the common denominator hasn't changed even though your list is of changes you did. Separate the two.

Gilley's point really is the worst case scenario ..... the problem wasn't tracked down earlier and now, there is a distinct possibility any number of the new adds or changes could be introducing troubles and you'd not even know it. When troubleshooting or even doing add-on mods, many times, the owner takes it once step at a time until each item has proven itself before going on to the next one and accordingly, you'll see lots of posts where someone is looking for help to pin down a problem after they added 3 or 4 new mods.

I can imagine a situation where a person gets their car in a shop for some exhaust or muffler work on Wednesday and a new clutch on Friday. Then lets say on Sunday they are driving it for a few hours on errands and hear some strange ratting or metallic noises. Maybe it's a pipe rubbing under the car from exhaust work or a heat shield or maybe it's something with the clutch ... ? ?
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'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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post #6 of 109 Old 11-07-2015, 12:47 PM
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Butt dynos are very subjective so it may not feel as responsive because you got accustomed to it.

'06 Autumn Copper FX35, '11 Alpine White Sentra & 2016 Red Hot Camaro 2SS
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post #7 of 109 Old 11-07-2015, 05:35 PM
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I'm going to invent a butt dyno. It'll be a simple iron-on patch to the back of pants with a respective patch on the seat of the car. These sensors will compute based on the acceleromter/g-force rating.
Inputs will vary with the size and weight of the driver.

Extra points will be awarded for 'pucker-factor' although I'm not going to detail how and where that sensor hooks up.


'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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post #8 of 109 Old 06-03-2016, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Bachman and Gilley, my apologies for not responding to your replies, but I never got a prompt in my email for some odd reason saying you both had given some valuable info. But onto the good-ish news, see below.

***FINALLY FIIXED*** The front wheel speed sensors were the source of my problem.

Since I have owned this vehicle, I have been chasing this AFR problem, where the engine has been running extremely rich, and not throwing any codes. I hope that anyone experiencing this issue gets the chance to read this.

I have replaced every sensor (some O2's twice) that I could find on the vehicle:
MAF, O2's front and rear, Coolant Temp, Cam Sensors, Crankshaft Sensor, etc

I have replaced my spark plugs 8 times in the last 2 years at least, replaced injectors, replaced coil packs, replaced air filter, replaced oil pan, replaced differential oil, replaced transmission oil,

Replaced Clutch, Replaced Flywheel, Replaced Wheel Hubs front and rear (bearing included) Cleaned every engine ground, Cleaned all grounds under dash

Basically, I have tried everything to correct this rich running condition with no CEL stored or active.

After 2 years of trying and failing, finally I received 3 stored codes:
C1108-Front LH Drivers Side ABS wheel speed sensor
C1109-Front RH Passengers side ABS wheel speed sensor
U1000-ABS grounding issue?

Coming full circle, I finally found out about the wheel speed sensors, which have a tremendous effect on my manual transmission(can only imagine how much they affect the AT models). Sure enough, I pop off the front tires, and the sensors are eyelet contact sensors, where the conductive portion of the contact was severely eroded and oxidized from road wear/moisture. FOUND THE PROBLEM and REPLACED with 2 new sensors,

car drives and sounds powerful again!!!!BUT ONLY INTERMITTENTLY and when I stomp the gas pedal at high rpm(no power 4k and under), but I have my eye on the 2 rear wheel speed sensors located under the differential in the rear now, and the Vehicle speed sensor in that same area sticking out of the transmission. This problem seems to be electrical, but with optimal combo of fuel, air, and spark needed on these newer cars, who knows. Any suggestions are welcome, as this car has me feeling like I should stick to computers and leave engines alone sadly....

I will update everyone with how this goes, in hopes that if someone has this same issue, they can have some light shed on what is a deal breaker for most in the same given circumstance.

Just to sum up, this journey has been hell, but I'm happy I have hope of a fix now that I'm finally at 100K miles after getting the car at 60k 4 years ago

2003 G35 Coupe Aero 6MT Horizon Blue (vw 2016-custom) 105,000 miles 07Oct2016
Stillen Headers, Stillen True Dual Catback, Stillen HFC's,
Stillen CAI/K&N, 2008 370Z Injectors

Last edited by daveyboy924; 07-27-2016 at 11:03 AM.
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post #9 of 109 Old 06-03-2016, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bachman View Post
Yeah ... I was beating around the bush.
The variables are beyond my math looking at the changes but the simplest approach may be a systems health check.....

- If the motor has good compression and the injectors are metering the correct fuel and the afr is correct, then I suppose the devil is in the other details.

Had motor compression checked, 286 across all cylinders except 5(5 has always been odd with plugs, and oil on plug due to valve cover, 280 here-no worries) not sure how to check if the injectors are metering or atomizing properly(I suspect this could be an issue though, running bg44k today with italian tune up, I'll let you know how that goes). According to the tuner at ECS performance in CT, wicked intelligent guy, the AFR is at stoich throughout his dyno pulls, drops to 12.5 without hesitation at wot, and has a flat line on top of each gear shift-meaning no Knock sensing that would retard timing.

-Have the Osiris mapping checked and verified.

How do I do this? can I do this myself with my standard version of osiris?

-Make sure the total exhaust system is air tight.

Had my Stillen full cat back exhaust welded at the mid pipe connection sleeve(shitty design allos air to escape both sides, and replaced cheap clamps that Stillen provides towards the Axle back portion of the muffler with heavy duty full wrap clamps from NAPA.

I see no mention of Check Engine Lights or SES so maybe that is a good sign for the various sensors and such.

I agree here, but I hate my life right now also because there have been no lights, until the c1109 c1108 u1000 intermittent stored abs codes reared their ugly faces.

I'd be leaning toward something that was wrong earlier and did not get the chance to be fixed or improved with all your add on's. If the motor compression wasn't effected by anything you did, it could be the culprit and would STILL be the culprit. Think about things in those terms first and work your way through it. IOW, assume the common denominator hasn't changed even though your list is of changes you did. Separate the two.

Trying, and thanks for the helpful advice...I'm going to figure this out, and have the first ever G35 with every sensor completely replaced with 100k from 2003 at some point it seems.

Gilley's point really is the worst case scenario ..... the problem wasn't tracked down earlier and now, there is a distinct possibility any number of the new adds or changes could be introducing troubles and you'd not even know it. When troubleshooting or even doing add-on mods, many times, the owner takes it once step at a time until each item has proven itself before going on to the next one and accordingly, you'll see lots of posts where someone is looking for help to pin down a problem after they added 3 or 4 new mods.

I've completely fucked up here. Now, that my mind has matured, and my wallet has flattened considerably, I will for sure take this approach going forward. Thanks for introducing that perspective.

I can imagine a situation where a person gets their car in a shop for some exhaust or muffler work on Wednesday and a new clutch on Friday. Then lets say on Sunday they are driving it for a few hours on errands and hear some strange ratting or metallic noises. Maybe it's a pipe rubbing under the car from exhaust work or a heat shield or maybe it's something with the clutch ... ? ?
Also, I wanted to note that after I had the exhaust mid piece welded, and replaced those cheap clamps near the axle, I went down for another dyno run, and saw 300whp in 5th gear!! ECS record for this car. **Also, I would like to note that the car seems to run without issue on the Dyno, but once it's on the road it starts to limit the engine output considerably...so much so that I wouldn't race an old woman with a rusted minivan full of groceries and children.

2003 G35 Coupe Aero 6MT Horizon Blue (vw 2016-custom) 105,000 miles 07Oct2016
Stillen Headers, Stillen True Dual Catback, Stillen HFC's,
Stillen CAI/K&N, 2008 370Z Injectors
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post #10 of 109 Old 06-03-2016, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Gilley, I get where you're coming from with the butt-dyno, but my real dyno numbers aren't translating to the pavement. When I first got the car without any mods done and the small exhaust leak near the axle muffler, we had 260whp(impressive for no mods on a car with 280-298bhp, something must've caused the torque to be that high up I'd imagine.... just my 2 cents) Now that we saw 300whp in 5th gear and the car feels slower/less responsive than it did(under 4k) when I first bought it?!

I'm certainly not trying to be a proponent for the mass butt dyno wave of thought out there, but when this car was stock with a hole, it would do burnouts on the highway in 3rd gear, grab, and send you into the back seat....If I tried to that now, the person in the passenger seat would look over at me while sipping their hot coffee and ask me how much longer till we get to the store without even budging.

Either way, I appreciate the feedback man, I'm just trying to understand this problem to have a better understanding of cars to come(GTR)

2003 G35 Coupe Aero 6MT Horizon Blue (vw 2016-custom) 105,000 miles 07Oct2016
Stillen Headers, Stillen True Dual Catback, Stillen HFC's,
Stillen CAI/K&N, 2008 370Z Injectors
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post #11 of 109 Old 06-03-2016, 02:38 PM
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Glad to hear you have made some progress. Unfortunately, with computers and technology, come variables that are 100-fold when trying to diagnose. I say this because even an older GTR surpasses these by a mile with other techno-opportunities ... (thinking; GET WARRANTY) .... lol

Your findings thus far will likely help someone else so thanks for getting back on this.

'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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I'm glad to hear you made some progress. At least you have a lot of new sensors that should keep the car running for a long time.

'06 Autumn Copper FX35, '11 Alpine White Sentra & 2016 Red Hot Camaro 2SS
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Thanks again guys, Ill keep chasing the issue.

Have an appointment booked with lia infiniti up here in albany,ny for thursday.

Im going to have them drive the car with the consult II connected to look for can communication abnormality; due to the fact that the engine performs perfect at a stand still or on dyno.

Hoping its something related to front wheel sensors, g sensor, tcm, abs/vdc unt, or grounds.
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Thanks again guys, Ill keep chasing the issue.

Have an appointment booked with lia infiniti up here in albany,ny for thursday.

Im going to have them drive the car with the consult II connected to look for can communication abnormality; due to the fact that the engine performs perfect at a stand still or on dyno.

Hoping its something related to front wheel sensors, g sensor, tcm, abs/vdc unt, or grounds.
Good luck, that'll be interesting to get resolved. A dyno should be designed to create a 'load' on the drive-train/motor, yet it won't duplicate road surfaces such as undulations, bumps or curves etc.... Those in fact do cause variations and potential for sensor alignment and other factors that might be involved.

'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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Right, and the guy that tuned the car for me on the dyno went for a drive with me afterwards, but it was raining, so he wasn't able to see the difference from dyno-to-road that I see with his computer monitoring engine input/output parameters.

Hopefully the super proprietary consult II will find what cipher can't...

I'll keep ya posted, and thanks again for all the input on this bud

2003 G35 Coupe Aero 6MT Horizon Blue (vw 2016-custom) 105,000 miles 07Oct2016
Stillen Headers, Stillen True Dual Catback, Stillen HFC's,
Stillen CAI/K&N, 2008 370Z Injectors
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