I have a g37 sport that makes a lifter like noise at idle, when hot. The dealer says it's an engine management system incompatibility issue with after market oil and not to worry. Believe me, it's a sound that makes me worry, not to mention it's embarrassing. They say it has something to do with the lobeless cam and the way the oil viscosity calibration changes when hot. I don't get it. They said that Infiniti will be offering a "factory" oil in the future that will halt the noise, but not to worry. HELP!!!!
...The dealer says it's an engine management system incompatibility issue with after market oil and not to worry...They say it has something to do with the lobeless cam and the way the oil viscosity calibration changes when hot. I don't get it. They said that Infiniti will be offering a "factory" oil in the future that will halt the noise, but not to worry. HELP!!!!
Wait, WHO put the oil in, the dealer? If you did it and it is not compatible, use the dealers oil, no?
If the dealer put the oil in the car and claims this, I demand to sit in another G-37 to hear the noise.
Like ThatGuy above said, sounds like a load of crap to me!
My G37 has over 4k miles on it now and I've NEVER heard any kind of sound like you're describing. I had the 1st oil change at 3k, so that means the sound didn't appear with the oil from the factory OR with the oil from the dealer oil change (Castrol's non-synthetic if I recall). If you truly believe the sound is severe enough to be causing damage, then:
1) I would insist the dealer change it immediately to whatever stops the noise. 2)If they don't have anything that will stop the noise, then demand a loaner car as the car shouldn't be driven to minimize future potential damage. 3)If they claim the car is safe to drive and the noise is not causing any damage, then INSIST on having them put that VERY CLEARLY in writing. 4)Contact Infiniti Corporate Customer Service, alert them to the situation, ask for their guidance, get a case number started. 5) Start researching lemon laws.
In short, like everyone else here, I think your dealer is really screwing with you on this one....I wouldn't take if I were you!
Thanks for the reply poormansporsche. While I was there, another G37 owner came in with the same complaint. We al went out to listen to her noise, and nothing happened for about 20 minutes, and then it made the same noise as mine.
Really??, wow, now you got me worried :???: ...How many miles are on your G37 ? Has it done it since new? If this is going to become a problem for them, I'd sure like to know more about it... maybe mine's still too new?
Sorry to worry you. The owner of the dealer is a close friend and I don't think he would b.s. me about this but.... He said that very soon, all cars are going to need proprietary materials, as the technology keeps advancing. He said that the fact that the cam has no lobes is an indication of how advanced this technology is.
My car has 7600 miles on it now. I only use premium gas, and synthetic oil. the noise comes and goes - only at idle, and as far as I can tell, only when it gets hot. I live in HELL - AKA Phoenix, Az., and maybe it isn't hot enough where you live. I'm not worried that if something happens, he won't take care of it, I am mainly curious how many others are experiencing this. The sad part is we're going to HAVE to use the dealer for oil changes, and that means they'll be able to charge a high priice.
Sorry to worry you. The owner of the dealer is a close friend and I don't think he would b.s. me about this but.... He said that very soon, all cars are going to need proprietary materials, as the technology keeps advancing. He said that the fact that the cam has no lobes is an indication of how advanced this technology is.
My car has 7600 miles on it now. I only use premium gas, and synthetic oil. the noise comes and goes - only at idle, and as far as I can tell, only when it gets hot. I live in HELL - AKA Phoenix, Az., and maybe it isn't hot enough where you live. I'm not worried that if something happens, he won't take care of it, I am mainly curious how many others are experiencing this. The sad part is we're going to HAVE to use the dealer for oil changes, and that means they'll be able to charge a high priice.
I will pay particularly close attention to engine noises now, but I gotta be honest, that lobeless cam business sounds screwy to me...why would it even be called a cam if it had no eccentrics (lobes)???:???:
Another thing, the fact that you are running synthetic at only 7600 miles troubles me. When, mileage wise, did you originally change to synthetic ? I have 3 dealerships near me and they all insist that you stay with conventional oil for the first 15k miles before making the choice to go synthetic.
Lastly, I'd bet a dollar that, (if there isn't any mechanical problem/damage to your car already) if you swithed to a conventional oil, properly weighted for your climate, that your noises would go away. It wouldn't be too expensive of a test anyway, considering were talking about a 40k car.
Wow, As I was waiting for the dealer to top off my oil and discuss the possibilities of a second engine replacement, I was seriously looking at a new G37s. I think I'll wait! I should hear something tomorrow about my engine. The new and improved engine they put in was 1.5 qts. low after 1200miles.
yea man, my brother has a black 07 g35 and just had an engine replacment about 2 months ago, and his engine is eating oil once again! weird man... i had an 04 g35 and it was a beaut... then this car came out... =P
Calling it a "lobeless cam" is kinda misleading but does make sense in a way. I believe he was referring to the use of VVEL in the 3.7 which by definition doesn't have cams in the traditional sense.
So in a way the cam is lobeless but probably would be better described as infinitly variable rather than lobeless.
I suppose that cams from JWT aren't in the picture now
I predict that the real power tweaking will be done in the CPU by products like the AccessPORT from COBB. Which is nice because it is cheaper than cams and ALOT easier to install/uninstall. From what I've read the G37 version should be done soon.
I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic oil at 866 miles. Changed again with Mobil 1 at 3791. At 5200 miles now at up to 90 degrees in Denver with no ticking. Yet.After owning several early 90s vehicles plauged with this issue (twin turbo Stealth, Mazda 626), I can attest there isn't much worse than your engine sounding like a time bomb. Tick, tick, tick...
Calling it a "lobeless cam" is kinda misleading but does make sense in a way. I believe he was referring to the use of VVEL in the 3.7 which by definition doesn't have cams in the traditional sense.
Variable Valve Event and Lift - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
So in a way the cam is lobeless but probably would be better described as infinitly variable rather than lobeless.
thanks for the explanation xeroed! Hey "Thatguy" I'm going to use my "round stick" to put a screen door on my submarine - LOL!!!!
You might ask your dealer friend to read ITB08-028 (ticking/tapping/knocking noise coming from Bank 2 (driver side) VVEL actuator) while waiting for the approved Infiniti oil to arrive. This may be your problem.
P.S. I also live in Phoenix, and I am wondering which dealer this is.
Hey everyone. Don't mean to hijack the thread but my G seems to be having the same problem as db7's. It's a slight valve noise from the top of the engine. I can only hear it when it's idle.
Car has exactly 2900 mi on it. I checked the oil level and it's slightly below the fill line. Can't hear it when you're in the cabin so haven't really thought much of it. Bringing it back to the dealer for it's first service at 3450 mi. Tell you what comes of it.
So is this just a slight clicking noise that appears at idle???????? i have heard the same thing for a month or two but thought nothing of it. Should i go get it checked at the dealer?
If it indeed is noise from the valve train it could be tappet noise. Also, it can be caused by loss of pressure in the oil/lubrication system. If the lub system can't pump enough oil up into where the tappets contact the cams it can cause noise in the form of tapping sounds. So that could be the reason why he's referring to oil viscosities.
I'm surprised to hear more motor problems with the VQ. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Hi everyone,
This is my 1st post in this forum.
When i was looking for an answer for my question, I have found it here.
I have bought a new G37s from the company, i have found out that i also have that sound too.
I went to the company for a complain, they said that I'm the 1st one who noticed that.
And when i check the other car the EX35 ( i have bought 2 cars together G and EX ). Also the same sound on the 2nd one.
Honestly i didn't like it.
Had the car serviced and the dealer's tech said its normal for the engine. He said he's seen ten or so G37s and the all emit the same noise, just some are easier to detect then others. He said it seems like it comes from the injecters.
Still doesn't ease my mind. I had them put it in writing.
You might suggest that the tech actually read the TSB. 1. Plug in the computer. 2. Check the existing software version. 3. If it is not the most recent, install the most recent version. That's it. No guesswork. No "I've heard this before." Etc. Etc. Etc.
Just check the software version. If it is not the most recent, then update. Could this be any easier?
again everyone spouts off their problem but no basics. So here is a potential area that should be understood and again since I do not own a new one I do not know what is specified in terms of WEIGHT of OIL to be used...So from other boards I am on what the typical owner does is put in 0W5 weight OIL (because some new cars use it) This is done by the manufacturer because it enhances MPG a TICK and sometimes allows them to sneak in under the CAFE regulations...so what is 0W5 or 0W10? you might want to read my extensive post on OIL posted on this site..0W5 is made from 0 base stock, that is right ZERO and there are molecular improvers added so that when the oil gets hot it gets the rating of FIVE (because the molecular strands will move and run a different way creating a stronger media.) As a engine builder I would never use a ZERO weight in my lawnmower much less a high winding hi tech auto engine. Your engine requires a certain film thickness to survive. Hydraulic lifters when very light OIL is introduced will collapse under high heat conditions.
I don't think you have the oil designation right. in the case of 0w-5 the oil will behave like 5 weight in most circumstances. the 0 comes into play with cold temps, hence the "w" (winter) suffix
response to that guy,................I called it 0w5.....and that is what it is, "identifying word or words by which someone or something is called"
now a little more for today....we all know what the zero rating is for the low level or COLD. What we now know for the upper level is that since it is made out of zero base stock with improvers it is found that after usage of being constantly heated up and then returned to cold it has been found that most of the molecular improvers disapate(boil off) so that you no longer have the full value of "5" in this case. My point of this article is that after a 1000 miles are you running 0W2 ?......not in my engine it doesn't
where did you come up with the 1k miles figure? What if what you are saying is true about the oil breaking down but it doesn't happen until 10k?
I'm basically playing devils advocate here, I have not read that oil, specifically synthetic since that's what I use, breaks down that quick. Also I don't run that thin of oil to start with so it's a moot point.
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