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Old 12-27-2004, 09:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Nissan OEM Oil Filter Rip-Off (Long Post - with 4x Pics)

This one applies equally to Sedans and Coupes, but I'm putting it here since the Coupe section has the most traffic.

At the dealer recently, I got the usual song-and-dance about how I should really be using the Nissan OEM oil filter. I've been experimenting, using Mobil-1 and K&N. Both are made by the same mfr (Champion Labs), but their respective filtration media have different emphasis, max filtering for the M1, and best flow for the K&N.

For those of you who've dug into such things, you probably know that Fram has the worst reputation amongst widely available oil filters. They tend to have flimsy cans and, most disturbingly, their filter elements are made with weak cardboard end caps that can collapse or fragment in hot oil. Good filters, like M1 and K&N are made with heavy metal "skeletons" that will neither collapse nor break down in hot oil.

By the way, I'm not conjecturing about all this, I've dissected a growing number of different filters (eight now) to see for myself. With a $20 pipe cutter, it's ridiculously easy to take even a hefty-looking K&N apart in 30 seconds.

Well, egged on by the dealer's scolding for non-use of OEM parts, I bought myself a 65F00, the stock-size (thimble) filter specified for the G35's VQ35 engine, and just cut it up. Imagine my shock and disappointment when I cut this thing open and found that it is little more than a Fram hiding in white paint!!! I will give them a little credit in that the bypass valve is metal, where Fram's is plastic, but otherwise, it's a copy of a Fram.

I've read some posts on the internet defending Fram. Of course, it's a free country and you can use whatever you want. If, against all odds, I decided I wanted this sort of filter, I'd go pay $2.50 for a "real" Fram not $10 at the dealer for one that's painted white.

See for yourself:

Here's the can of the just-cut filter:


Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:


Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:


And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:

You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.

Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)

I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.

My apologies for the length -- I get a little over-excited about these maintenance "issues," especially when I smell a rip off.
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Old 12-27-2004, 10:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Geezus this is shocking news.

I was being told the same thing, OEM filter is best yada yada.

Screw that now. The OEM filter that's on my G will be the last.
Next time it'll be Mobil-1 or K&N.
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Old 12-27-2004, 10:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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so which in your opinion will be best?
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Old 12-28-2004, 12:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great info Torkaholic. I've purchased the life time oil change. I wonder if I should be bringing in my own filter from now on.
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Old 12-28-2004, 01:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Bummer, I've used nothing but OEM and Fram filters.

Thanks for diggin' up all that stuff for us Tork. I hope this thread turns into a sticky.
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Old 12-28-2004, 08:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info, Tork. Do you know if the Tough Guard or Double Guard by Fram are any better than the regular Fram?

I second VQ35Sleeper - which one will be the best choice - at least in your opinion?
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Good info, I posted something very similar a while back and included an in-depth review and cut-ups of all the top filters. It is shocking, to say the least, how some of the most highly thought of (read: highly marketed) filters are actually constructed. As a result of my research I concluded a Purolator PureOne #PL14610 to be my best choice.

I would point to all that great info, but the search function still doesn't go back further than the site update. Grrr...
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Old 12-28-2004, 10:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nice write-up! I will be buying my own filter from now on.
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Old 12-28-2004, 11:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanos_villain
Nice write-up! I will be buying my own filter from now on.
You do know that holly's talking about G35 oil filters not BMW ones, right?
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Old 12-28-2004, 04:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VQ35Sleeper
so which in your opinion will be best?
I've used Mobil-1 filters for a long time (over 10 years) with apparently good results. Right now, I'm running what I plan will be a 5k mile run with a M1 filter, after which I will do an oil analysis. Next, I plan to do the same with a K&N installed. It will be interesting (at least to me ) to see whether the finer filtration of the M1 or the better flow of the K&N seems to show up as a noticeable UOA difference. I'll be happy to post my results when they come in. I think, however, that you'll be fine with either filter so long as you use them for a reasonable time/mileage interval.
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, by way of comparison, here's what the filter element in a Mobil-1 filter looks like:


It's a bit hard to see, but the filtration element is deeply cemented into the cupped metal end cap on both ends. The caps are also well secured to the metal center tube. I tried torqueing each end cap in opposite directions as hard as I could, but could not break the element apart.

Which would you rather have protecting the oil flow in your engine???
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Old 12-28-2004, 06:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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very interesting tork....i too have always used OEM filters or Fram....i guess i'll be buying the mobil1 from now on...
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Old 12-28-2004, 08:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Good info tork.

I've got two quick questions for you. What's the part number for the Mobil 1 filter and what kind of volume of oil does it hold versus the stock oem filter?

Dholly got to ask the same question about your Purolator PureOne #PL14610 filter......what kind of volume of oil does it hold versus the stock oem filter? I do remember your earlier post, but hell if I'm going to search through your 2,000+ posts for it.
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Here's a copy and paste that sheds light on the subject. I've highlighted pertinent info...

Most oil filters have filter elements made of paper and are effective down to about 40 microns. Below left is a paper element expanded 50 times. In this picture, a 30 micron particle is about this big: o

Paper element --->> vs. composite element --->>

Above right is a synthetic element expanded 50 times. The advanced filters have composite elements made of paper, cellulose, and fiberglass, and are effective down to 15 microns or less. Typically these advanced filters also have more surface area on their elements, and therefore more capacity. To put this into perspective, 25 microns is about 1 thousandth of an inch. In your motor, most parts like pistons, bearings, and bushings are set up with a clearance of 1 thousandth of an inch, so to the moving lubricated parts a 25 micron particle is as big as the oil film, and will scratch both surfaces. We don't want particulate in our engines 25 microns or bigger. Some companies claim that even particles as small as 1 to 5 microns cause premature engine wear, but I don't find the evidence on this topic to be compelling, either for or against. Anyway, you can see now that standard paper filters are marginal. The paper filters let through about 10 to 20 times as much 25 micron stuff as the synthetic filters do, and about 5 to 10 times as much 15 micron stuff.

It's not enough to ask a company to what size particle their filter is effective. Imagine a screen door with some oil on it. Obviously something the size of a golf ball or fly is simply not getting through. However, even particles which are a tenth the size of the holes sometimes don't get through - spray your screen door with a garden hose and see what comes off. Oil filters are similar, except the holes are random in size, not perfectly regular like a screen door. So, company A says "Our filters are effective down to 7 microns." What does this mean? If "effective" means "we catch 15%," well, I'm not impressed. You need an efficiency number along with the size number before you can really think you know something. No filter is 100% effective - this would require either very regular holes, which are currently impossible to mass produce, or very small holes on average, which would block too much oil flow.

Purolator makes filters in three qualities, standard, premium, and Pure One. Purolator states that their premium filters capture 97.8% @ 30 microns and 85.2% @ 20 microns. These numbers are typical of a normal paper element oil filter. The Purolator Pure One filters capture 99.8% @ 30 microns and 99.2% @ 20 microns. This means the Premium filter is letting through eleven times as many 30 micron particles as the Pure One, and eighteen times as many 20 micron particles. Clearly, the Pure One filter is doing a considerably better job of cleaning the oil than the premium filter.

The way the Pure One achieves this filtering efficiency is by combining three different types of materials in their filter: paper like everyone else to catch the big stuff, and cellulose and fiberglass fibers to fill in the "large" holes in the paper with their much finer fibers. Filters like this are now made by Purolator, Hastings (marketed as AMS), and Champion (marketed as Mobil 1 and Bosch). Accordingly, the best oil filters are the Purolator Pure One, Mobil-1, AMSOil, and Bosch. If you use one of these filters with one of the commercial synthetic oils, IMO you have the best protection money can buy.

Champion says the Bosch is a 15 micron filter, and the Mobil-1 is a 10 micron filter but gives no efficiency numbers. AMS claims their filter is effective to "7 to 10 microns," but again without any efficiency number. SAE tests would tend to indicate that the Purolator has a slight advantage in filtering over the other filters named here. Additionally, the Mobil-1 (M1-110) has excellent filter media but only 60 sq. in. surface area (less than a stock filter), vs. PureOne (PL14610) with 110 sq.in. The important thing is, all of these filters have performance at 30 microns which is far superior to a paper only filter, and all of these filters have performance at 20 microns which is also far superior to a paper filter. So, bottom line, these filters will clean your oil far better than a paper-only filter.

All filters have to undergo SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to prove that they meet the engine manufacturer's requirements. The SAE J806 test uses a single-pass test, checking for contaminant holding capacity, size of contaminant particles trapped, and ability to maintain clean oil. As an amendment of the J806 test, the multi-pass test also looks for filter life in hours, contaminant capacity in grams, and efficiency based on weight. The efficiency of the filter is determined only by weight through gravimetric measurement of the filtered test liquid. Typical numbers for paper filter elements are 85% (single pass) and 80% (multi-pass).

A new test, the SAE J1858, provides both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter), for evaluation. From this data filtration ratio and efficiency for each contaminant particle size can be determined as well as dust capacity and pressure loss as a function of time. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns. This means a paper filter passes about 25 times as many 30 micron particles as a Pure One. I would love to see these numbers for the various available filters, but no one seems to be talking.

Here are some other links to check:

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...study-faq.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Does this guy do research or what.
Damn.
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