I've got two quick questions for you. What's the part number for the Mobil 1 filter and what kind of volume of oil does it hold versus the stock oem filter?
Dholly got to ask the same question about your Purolator PureOne #PL14610 filter......what kind of volume of oil does it hold versus the stock oem filter? I do remember your earlier post, but hell if I'm going to search through your 2,000+ posts for it.
There are several M1 filters that will do. First, the M1-108 is the same size as the spec OEM filter (tiny, I call it the thimble filter). The M1-110 is the same diameter as the OEM and 108, but it's about half again taller, allowing for a larger filtration element. I prefer the 110 size, admittedly just because, since the stock size looks absurdly small to my eye. Candidly, I have no hard evidence which would prove that the stock filter is too small. You can also use a M1-105, whose height is somewhere between the 108 and 110, but it's much wider than either the 108 or 110.
The Purolators are good, well made filters, but watch for one thing. In the "tall" size, the metal centertube does not extend the entire length of the filter. Look up the center opening on the bottom of the filter, and you'll see that the tube just ends about 3/4 inches before the top, leaving the filtration medium with nothing to support it. So, while I will happily use the Puro on my wife's Sequoia (centertube goes all the way up in this one), I won't for my G.
The Purolators are good, well made filters, but watch for one thing. In the "tall" size, the metal centertube does not extend the entire length of the filter. Look up the center opening on the bottom of the filter, and you'll see that the tube just ends about 3/4 inches before the top, leaving the filtration medium with nothing to support it. So, while I will happily use the Puro on my wife's Sequoia (centertube goes all the way up in this one), I won't for my G.
Not sure which filter you are refering to. IMO, the PureOne PL14610 does not suffer from that. It has been my understanding that any filter with an end bypass relief valve HAS to have a sealed tube top to maintain flow separation. Here are cutaway pics of the PL14610...
Other reasons I went with PureOne over M-110 are:
1.) the price difference - PureOne can be had in my area oftentime at 1/2 the price of the M-1 filter;
2.) the difference in bypass relief valve psi. - the PureOne is rated 17psi vs. the M-110 at 25psi. Since I'm using synth oil in a cold climate, I understand the lower psi is more appropriate for my conditions;
3.) a better anti-drain back valve. Below is a picture of the Pure-One and the Mobil-1 anti-drainback valves. Both filters use the superior silicon rubber. The Pure-One has a larger core and a convex shaped mating surface to guarantee an excellent fit. The Mobil-1 has a flat seal and a flat mating surface which do not inspire the same confidence. The Mobil-1 anti-drainback valve isn't bad, it's clearly superior to that of most other filters. Many oil filter brands have a really cheap piece of plastic that doesn't seal very well at all.
Ok, so the pics above don't show conclusively so I went home and dug up a PL14610 to get a better look. Tork is right, the tube does not go all the way to the metal end cap by about 1/2". The filter construction certainly seems to form a very solid unit though, so I'm not really sure if/why this would/should be considered a significant issue. Now I gotta find a hole shot of the M-110 and search BITOG, thanks a lot...
I'm on the road today, and don't have a hole shot handy, but I can assure you that the center tube on the M1-110 does go all the way to the top of the element. Ever since I stumbled on this "deficiency" in the Purolator, I've checked every filter I've used, and I look at any that I'm considering using. So far, the Purolator is the only one I've seen this way. Again, to be perfectly clear, I have no evidence that the short tube is a danger, but my gut feeling is that full oil pressure exerted against the unsupported segment of the element could be a problem, especially in high pressure differential conditions (like a cold start or perhaps rpm surge).
Ok, so I read the BITOG threads about the AMSoil filter failure, as well as the handful of other threads discussing center tube length. Nothing contained in any of them lead me to conclude that the center tube was at fault. Actually, I'm going to side with those who believe the wrong filter for the application, -40 degree weather and the wrong oil viscosity most likely caused the filter failure.
Can I say for certain a short center tube didn't play a part? No but, realistically, I think there is a much higher probability that the tube gap is not a problem. I also see several other filters use a similar construction method, leaving varying amounts of tube gap. Apparently, unsupported folded media must take enough psi to open the bypass or we would be hearing a whole lot more about this type of failure if it truely was a significant issue.
I would note that the PureOne media is heavily epoxied at both ends and also appears to have some sort of coating on the media, perhaps a stiffener? I also stuck a small metal rod into the opening and put what I feel is a fairly heavy amount of force on the center tube and it did not move. At any rate, I can not find another single instance mentioned where a short tube is suspected of causing a failure in any filter let, alone a PureOne. So, well, let's just say I'm not ready to run hysterically for the exit...yet.
That said, the construction method does kind of nag at me and I'm going to look at the alternatives with a full tube. I have never been comfortable with the tiny filter media (60 sq. in.) of the M-110. It's the same tiny filter that Honda recommends for the 1.0L engine in its Insight hybrid and motorcycles for heaven sakes! I might consider the larger M-105 (11-17 psi) as I have seen several G35er's use and like that bigger filter. Aside from all the Mobil 1 filters, I found a post that cross referenced replacement filters to the oem Nissan 15208 9e000 (14 psi) thread and gasket size. Can't vouch for it's accuracy yet though.
If this is correct, and you definitely want a silicon ABDV, the pickin's are looking mighty slim. And, I can't even recall the last time I saw a Wix store, although we do have some NAPA's around here. I presume both sell online as well?
Ok, so I read the BITOG threads about the AMSoil filter failure, as well as the handful of other threads discussing center tube length. Nothing contained in any of them lead me to conclude that the center tube was at fault. Actually, I'm going to side with those who believe the wrong filter for the application, -40 degree weather and the wrong oil viscosity most likely caused the filter failure.
{snip}
I don't think the Amsoil failure that was detailed on BITOG was a result of the short tube, at least those photos did not make it look like that was the case (I'm a member there too, "ekpolk"). But that failure did get me thinking when I noticed the short tube in the Puro filter. In particular, if en engine-filter combo can generate pressures sufficient to buckle steel in that fashion, even if abnormal, what would that pressure do to a segment of unsupported filter medium? Again, however, in the interest of fairness, I have come across no reports of this "short tube" design failing in this way, but I just can't help but conclude that even a well secured, sturdy filter medium is no match for metal-bending pressures, even if they happen only one time.
As to the medium area issue, are you describing the 110 or the 108 filter? I have not made any actual measurements, but I did notice one odd thing. The filter cap and element combo in the 110 (tall version, stock diameter) is about the same size as the cardboard cap and element combo of the 65F00 OEM (short or "thimble" version, stock diameter obviously). The M1-108 filter, which is actually slightly shorter than the 65F00 filter is also almost the same size overall (outside dimensions) as the cap and element combo of the M1-110. It is clear, then, that the 108 must indeed have a tiny filter element (and the darned thing looks like it belongs on a 1.0L engine...). I have a 108, but I haven't cut it (yet) since I'm getting a bit weary of chopping up $10 filters right and left.
Anyway, from my examination, the element in the 110 seems on par, in size, with the OEM, Bosch, Fram, and K&N.
If this is correct, and you definitely want a silicon ABDV, the pickin's are looking mighty slim. And, I can't even recall the last time I saw a Wix store, although we do have some NAPA's around here. I presume both sell online as well?
Anybody use the Wix or NAPA filters?
I have been using Wix brand filters for years and as far as NAPA's Gold line of filters if you look on the box it says Made by WIX.
And if anyone were to ask I would say...K&N for air filters and Wix filters for oil and fuel filters...
Can anyone verify what kind of filter Infiniti installs today, in 2008, over 3 years after the original post? If I'm not mistaken, a few things have changed with the G since then.
^Still the same Nissan filters as far as I know. Nissan wants to make a few cents off of oil filters too. I just bought one the other day and might not use it after reading all this microns crap. I went with Bosch on the first oil change, they have a premium filter which I think are quality.
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Wife has 2007 G35 Coupe 6MT, Liquid Platinum,XM,Premium Pkg, Aero
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924 turbo, worn out, now a project, 914,
'66 BB Chevelle RIP
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