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Shifted my g35 from 3rd to 2nd (BAD)

7K views 66 replies 5 participants last post by  VVladislav 
#1 ·
Well I was banging through gears an I was in third like 6,800 rpm ready to shift in 4th an I shifted into second instead didn't mean to I was lucky that I was about 200yrds away from my friends house an I just put in in neutral an let it roll in his driveway I was going like 75

But what it does when I'm in gear an let go of the clutch it makes a super bad scratching/rubbing noise sounds so bad sounds like the rear differential to me not the transmission

Could anybody help me please

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#3 ·
No mph an It bearly let's my go I shift first from dead stop leg go of clutch an it starts making that crazy sound an I can put my ebrake on an let go of the clutch while it's in gear an it never stalls but does keep making that bad sound

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#36 ·
I purchased mine with 96,900 I think.
It is around 122,000 now but I've had it almost 6 years so the miles have been light and I've driven it as if I want the tires and brakes to give me better than average life. I didn't want a money pit and I definitely didn't want to drive to the extend I caused a money pit, but to each their own. I understand the fun that can be had with these and I wouldn't judge anyone by how they choose to entertain themselves. If you are lucky and maintain these things they don't necessarily have to cost a lot.

I don't hot rod it much at all but it's a fun car to drive and I can get a bit squirrely with it even at legal speeds on some of our roads here when wanting some fun. Lets face it, these cars handle the curves at speeds many won't and that's the fun of driving for me.
The zero to 140 straight-a-way wasn't my thing. I wanted a car that was fun to 'drive' so I get my fix in daily errands, going to work or whatever.

So far, I've done the window motor on one side; $30 or so DIY .... a new clutch at around 109,000 miles that was about $1600 parts and labor with Redline fluid .... did the Z1 alloy Z-tube for about $58 and just had my driver door re-aligned and new check-strap put in from wind damage... some touch up paint as well .... $250. Almost forgot, I did have my spoiler repainted due to sun fade and clear coat blistering, that was $280.00.

I've replaced the tires but other than the LOF that is inclusive with the selling dealer as a one time $299..... you can see the math above as my cost of ownership and maint. since June 2011.

:smile2:
 
#37 ·
Not bad, I put Atleast 600 miles a month on my g an I do drive it like I stole though so I ain't calling it junk it's probably just Me, an I ain't much of a person to try an get top speed ether way to dangerous for me I got to 151 an said that's the last time for me also I'm kinda young to so I still have the wild streak to wanna give me car hell

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#38 ·
I drive 100miles a day no choice bought a house haha it was the best deal out of the city limits. So for me let's see

New Clutch and flywheel (resurfaced) 1180

Ac compressor and recharge with front brakes 1100

Radiator 325$

Tires 500$

Led bulbs :) 16$

Z tube 70$

And if you need new head lamp bulbs go on amazon buy two (does not come in a set) 70$ phllips D2R

serpentine belt and ac belt 150

Driving wise i drive normal with a few fast shifts here and there. Nothing dramatic typically 5 over limit. And yes I enjoy this car like no other and the handling is amazing. Better than the 86 Datsun maxima I had. Which talked to me.


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#39 ·
Dang lol I mainly drive my 2014 toyota camry lmao I have been every where in that thing drove 26,000 miles in one year with it an I have gave it heck played in the snow ebrake it redline the crap out of it an it hasn't let me down only thing I have done is oil an flush radiator collar setting at 76k miles now but it is a toyota an that's probably the most reliable car they make

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#44 ·
I flayed with mothers then used barret jacksons wash and wax soap the whole time. Then for polish I use nu polish wax I use mothers paste wax then a week later I'll wash again and use synthetic wax. Results well see video hahahaha and thanks for the compliment :)


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#55 · (Edited)
Did you check the sub-frame bushing?

I had this symptom when i first bought my car. I was driving/shifting hard and would hear something off and on coming from the center of the vehicle. Turned out to be failed carrier bushing and failed rear sub-frame bushing. Tell tale sign is when there is a black drip coming from rear where bushing is installed. If you can get under the car and there is a lot of play in the drive line look for cracks at carrier bushing or excessive play.
 
#56 ·
I had this symptom when i first bought my car. I was driving/shifting hard and would hear something off and on coming from the center of the vehicle. Turned out to be failed carrier bushing and failed rear sub-frame bushing. Tell tale sign is when there is a black drip coming from rear where bushing is installed. If you can get under the car and there is a lot of play in the drive line look for cracks at carrier bushing or excessive play.


I'm a newbie. Hahaha. I'm still learning the parts. But based on videos I've seen it's the wheel bearings. Just not sure which side but I definitely know it's the front.


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#57 ·
Good to hear. I will be replacing my front wheel bearings here soon enough as well. Going back and forth between a failed bearing or bent wheel front left. Best of luck. From my noobie experience get ready to replace some factory OEM rubber.
 
#59 ·
Well I found the problem finally! The tires have bubbles on the inner sides. This made the tires wobble hence the sounds and vibrations. Bearings and joints are good. Struts are starting to go. So I'm getting better tires as I type this. Make sure you do your alignments regularly and don't forget like i did.






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#62 ·
Lmao I was fixing to come to say it's more than likely your tires, I remember when I had a pontiac g6 my first wanna br sports cars an it made a horrible sounds ik the front I replaced wheel bearings shocks an struts lower control a-arm bushings an still didn't fix the problem (the tires I had on them were brand new on only have like 1k miles on them)
Wheel I said **** it I'm buy new front tires to after spending 1500 on a new front end an come to find out my front right tire had broken the belt that's in the tire an made it sound thay bad an was shaking everything

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#60 · (Edited)
WOW.
So how new are the tires or miles on them?

That looks to be significant wear in a short time but glad you caught it when you did. It won't really mean much now that you caught it early on and especially on the inner side. You can see the more usable part of the tires and big foot print is tread in good shape and still looks to be very even.

I've always stated I'm a bit of tire geek or obsessive about checking pressure and looking over the tires but I've probably never stated that I look over the entire width of them to insure they are wearing evenly.

That there can be a sign of a bad wheel bearing or alignment as you mentioned and more often than not, usually is the cause.
 
#66 ·
That's about right on the money for tires. A smart place to Not skimp.
Besides, these cars have sizing that dictates you are kind of stuck anyways and who wants a bargain basement off-brand when they run $170 or more? Cost per mile is so low if you cost it out that way... and you risk putting up with crappy performance, noise or poor ride quality even if they do rate okay for traction.
I've been with Conti's twice around and getting a taste or Pirelli now. I'm testing the theory the Pirelli may be a slightly better ride and lower noise but the Continental DWS Extreme Contact have been a good tire. Just not sure I need the aggressive winter bite.
 
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