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Need info please

9K views 113 replies 8 participants last post by  barold 
#1 ·
Hi. Im looking to purchase a 2007 g35 6mt coupe that i have found this week. The car looks to be in very nice condition with about 90k miles on it.

Roughly how much do decent tires go for on this car? I believe rears are 245,40,19. Rims are stock. Im wondering on average what you guys spend on replacements for all 4 tires on the vehicle. (Decent tires, as i do like grip)

Also i keep being told ( and have read complaints) that many people have had to replace transmissions between 60 and 90k miles. Is there a problem with the transmissions on the manual g35s?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Search tire rack for tires in the size you need. You can get Kumhos or Pirellis that fit but the price will be very different.

Most manual Gs have good transmissions. Some get synchro issues and all need the clutch replaced but I know of plenty with over 100k miles.
 
#3 ·
I hadn't heard of man trans issues or probs that are on the level of replacing them. That's news to me.

Tires will be $145/$180 lower tier to $250/$275 on the top end ... just an estimate but as Gilley says, just price them by the size. TireRack will be just a shade better than your local source but offers lots of great info and tire specs if you do your research.

I went about avg I think on tire cost and probably came up at $1000. Mine are an A/S that has good ratings for performance and pretty good winter traction. That's a tough nut to crack. Much easier to get perf specific tires if you don't run them in winter or have to deal with much winter. Some do a seasonal set-up.
Look up Continental, Michelin, Yokohama, Kumho, Hankook, Bridgestone, Pirelli etc.... GoodYear IMO are okay tires and may be pretty sticky but may also run the least miles for wear. That's a typical trade-off but I tend to thing GY are a bit too short on tire life if a performance rated tire.
 
#4 ·
Are you guys running directional tires, or better off not running directional so u can flip from left side to right for a semi rotatation to stretch out tire wear time and life?

I plan on running a summer set on the stock rims and getting 4 steelies of the same size on all 4s for the winter. Basically the same width on the back as the stock size that come on the fronts. ( to make winter tires cheaper and be able to rotate them fully)
 
#5 ·
Mine are directional.
Some have more problems than others with the way the tires wear. Rear camber can be so that the tires wear on the inner part quite extensively so they have to be flipped if you want to gain the life and miles out of them.

I'm not sure how much consideration is there per directional tread/optimal tire life and overall cost. That's more a personal choice. My guess is if I were in that situation and liked the tires overall, I'd go that route to extend the life of the tire rather than an excuse to replace them early.

 
#6 ·
There are a few things that can be said about these cars and tire wear/cost is one everyone has in mind. This car is not going to let you get away cheap for brakes and tires but you can do the brakes yourself.
 
#8 ·
These cars have built in negative camber and therefore will wear tires out faster. You can get a camber kit to counteract the negative camber but you will sacrifice handling by getting rid of it. 15-20k is normal with stock suspension.
 
#9 ·
Thats a good point. Maybe just reducing it a tad to increase tire life abit but nothing drastic. Also I dont plan on lowering the car at all, stiffer suspension would be on the list but not sacrificing stock clearance as the car needs to be able to get into condominium underground parking lots.
 
#10 ·
With a camber kit front and rear you can virtually eliminate uneven inner tire wear. Flipping the tires to the other side rim also helps extend the life. I've done that several times.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all the tips. After discussing this matter with you guys i no longer have any concerns over tire wear. One more thing , i read the stock rims are forged and pretty light for the size (wich makes me happy hearing that as i love the look of them) , but they tend to chip paint /oxidize. More useless rumours from haters or is there some truth to it?
 
#13 ·
Known to have paint chips pretty easy and bleed through from the primer I think.
Mine started to get a bit funky looking but I was wanting an excuse to change the color slightly anyways. I went to deeper graphite color than the lighter silver they were. Very happy with the result and you can re-do your wheels as I did in approx 2 days... a very easy DIY.
 
#14 ·
Okay thanks BM. I have an awesome rim refinishing place close by. Just wanted to factor in extra money ill be putting into this car After i purchase it. Well this has been very informative. Thank you all. Ill post again once i actually have a g35 in my possession.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Need more advice please!

I test drove the '07 6mt coupe today(that i want to buy). Its immaculate inside and out BUT i went through two gears at redline just to feel the HR kick and almost immediately after noticed an oily smell inside the cabin ( while still driving) .

Now both of the g35s i have driven have both done that. Is it that im coming across oil guzzlers? Or do all g35s experience that when you rev them high?

This car is only 90k miles and this is the 2nd owner .Car is bone stock and seems babied but the smell after full throttle in 2 gears worries me abit.

Also when i checked the oil dipstick after the drive the oil seemed splattered higher up on the stick and the oil was not on the bottom where the measurement tab is. ( yes i wiped it clean and put it back in) was abit odd. Ive never experienced that with a car, not sure if that means anything.

The oil temp on the car never climbed above halfway , so its not overheating.
 
#17 ·
It's ok for oil to be high on the stick after a drive. It can take some time to settle down.

Contact Infiniti consumer services and have them check the vin for oil consumption issues.
 
#19 ·
That's not the normal smell but someone could have spilled oil on the motor during an oil change or something. If you can determine its coming from the exhaust then that might indicate an issue.
 
#24 ·
Good thoughts,, could be this simple. I missed this post.

It's good to take a strange odor seriously though.
At 90 k I wouldn't assume a clutch is going bad but they are a pricy re-do and I wouldn't buy a car w/o knowing the clutch is feeling strong. Burnt oil and a hot clutch don't really smell the same though.

Two previous owners and 90 k on the clutch may mean nothing at all. It may be spilt oil from a recent o/c or top off. Then again, W/O a recent oil change or top off , you may have more to learn about it.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Having the car checked at my mechanic tomorrow before making the final decision. Makes sense there should be signs in the exhaust if its burning oil. It got abit dark out after the test drive but tomorrow will be sunny when i have access to the car again. Ill check that out more thoroughly.

Im also now thinking as much as i do know how to drive stick, maybe im just not used to the 6mt and maybe i was letting the clutch out abit slower then i should have (or just not rev matching as well as i should have on the full throttle test). I was trying to be abit gentle/modest in the test drive just because it wasnt my car yet and out of respect to the owner (sitting next to me) to not drive like i stole it. It did smell like oil to me but i guess there could be a small chance that i slipped the clutch abit maybe.
 
#22 ·
Having the car checked at my mechanic tomorrow before making the final decision. Makes sense there should be signs in the exhaust if its burning oil. It got abit dark out after the test drive but tomorrow will be sunny when i have access to the car again. Ill check that out more thoroughly.

Im also now thinking as much as i do know how to drive stick, maybe im just not used to the 6mt and maybe i was letting the clutch out abit slower then i should have (or just not rev matching as well as i should have on the full throttle test). I was trying to be abit gentle/modest in the test drive just because it wasnt my car yet and out of respect to the owner (sitting next to me) to not drive like i stole it. It did smell like oil to me but i guess there could be a small chance that i slipped the clutch a bit maybe.
Did the owner know you smelled the oil or did you discuss it with him/her ? It doesn't strike me as too bold of a question to pose. Wondering if it was commented on, or if it's something the owners says it always does / did.

You mention getting used to it and the clutch.... that's a common learning curve for just about everybody whose commented on driving one, no matter their level of driving experience. Are you sure you didn't smell a slight clutch odor?

The mileage intervals for the oil changes might indicate if it was going in to be changed / topped off early or any records may indicate if it was getting low or any concerns.

Just posting a few thoughts. :wink2:
 
#25 · (Edited)
Please help! Buying a car in 2 days!

Okay so had the car checked and heres the damage...
1 oil sweat from drain plug..meh no biggie..
2 front shocks are blown (770 to replace and install),
2 front tires with severe inner wear (145 a tire...not too bad) will need a front end alignment also.

THE DIRTY-> one valve cover sweating oil...parts 200 to 400.. labour 400 so 800 to fix : / (also reason for smell on high rev im guessing now)

Clutch is stiff and going soon and pressure plate worn. 900 to 1k labour from my trusted mechanic i know, 500 to 600 from a new perf shop i just visited that solely works on nissan zs and infinitis. (He also said some people will use a maxima valve cover and buy em for about 200)

The valve cover replacement, and the clutch /flywheel are my big issues (all while still rolling the dice on wheather this is an oil sipper or guzzler as an added bonus)

I really want a 6mt. This was the one of the better ones ive found in my color but insight of all this...now im $#@#en scared.

(Also under the exhaust tips were seriously black stained and inside was dark as hell. Could be normal for 6mts but still caught my attention.

Any suggestions for clutch/flywheel upgrades /avg prices? Dont want to spend too much. I dont mind abit of chatter.( Just not alot of it where every female in my car thinks my transmission is falling out lol) Car will not be tracked and No FI /huge hp being added for a good while... so just to bring the revs up (basically on mild NA tune) maybe act clutch and 18p fly? And guessing i need a release bearing kit too?

Thanks
 
#26 · (Edited)
These things are not out of the ordinary for this car. You've nailed down what it needs and have some ideas of costs so you are way ahead IMO and can make an offer based on some hard facts and numbers that either discount the car from a normal market value or you begin shopping more. Oil smell seems likely in that explanation.

Oil consumption either is or isn't. You've checked into it, asked specifics about it to the owner or service shop or looked at service records (I'll assume). Investigate that if that is a concern of yours.
Even then, mentioned before if you are not running syn oil an expecting a 7000 miles of life out of it, you'll be swapping oil every 3 to 5 k anyways. Just check it and stay on top of it. Most name brand dino oil won't degrade to any measurable level until 5 or 6 k but that doesn't count street racing or heavy handed driving.

As for the clutch, if chatter doesn't bother you there are more than a few good options and brands to look at and you may want to investigate past threads here on those. They may perform better and be lighter weight and may even last as long as the OEM while also (very likely) being less investment.

If the negotiated price or asking price doesn't reflect costs of what it needs, you may want to continue looking. Some folks won't sell a car that needs a lot of work meaning; They kept it up in tip top shape and had the enjoyment of driving a car that needed nothing during their ownership experience or just fixed, repaired, replaced as needed and normal wear n tear.

When someone gets restless or loses interest and lets things go or can't afford to keep up with things, they will get bit in the long run on the value of it unless an unsuspecting buyer comes along.
 
#27 ·
If you're handy with tools some of your issues are not expensive if you have the time.


1 oil sweat from drain plug

Likely needs a new crush washer

2 front shocks are blown (770 to replace and install),

At this age and typical miles, it's expected. If you can diy then the cost of front and rear shocks should be less than $400. Tears are easy, fronts not as much. Install lowering springs at this time if you want to lower the car.

2 front tires with severe inner wear (145 a tire...not too bad) will need a front end alignment also.

The front end doesn't have any alignment settings for camber which causes the inner tire wear. Only the toe is adjustable.

You should consider front and rear camber arms ($500) and an alignment to save money in the long run on tires. Install the camber arms when you replace the shocks and save installation cost. All that stuff gets loosened at the same time.

THE DIRTY-> one valve cover sweating oil...parts 200 to 400.. labour 400 so 800 to fix : / (also reason for smell on high rev im guessing now)

New valve covers are $200 or so each. You can change both in an afternoon with simple hand tools.

I'd want to get the car for a good price considering the money you're going to have to spend to get it right but take into consideration the age and miles. Those parts are wear and tear for the most part.
 
#30 ·
Strange although I can imagine a number a dealers in the USA that may not have experience or seen a car that had o/c issues or employees that haven't been there over a long term to have seen it.
Naturally, any search they do on their fancy recall computer will show it though. When I was in the car biz, our service dept ran every VIN that came in to search for TSB and recall info;

A) To take care of the customer and make it a one stop catch-all and

B) To generate revenue. Just b/c something comes up under warranty coverage does not mean the shop doesn't make money on it when comped by the factory.

Good luck with everything... let us know if you work out a deal on this one.
 
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