My solution for sticky clutch pedal! - 6MT.net Infiniti G35/G37/GTR Forums
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post #1 of 23 Old 07-09-2012, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Talking My solution for sticky clutch pedal!

Hello guys/gals. Been lurking on this forum for about a year, and have benefited from the wealth of knowledge. Solved my soft/sticky clutch problem, so I figured I would contribute and help those who may have had the same issue as me.

Got my 05 6mt coupe about a year ago, and started experiencing the sticky clutch pedal a couple months into ownership. While driving, the clutch pedal would gradually cease to return to the top. I noticed that the longer I would drive, the more slack would develop in the pedal. On one particularly long commute, the pedal sunk so much, I couldnt gear it anymore. The next day it returned to normal though..

I thoroughly flushed the clutch line and even though it seemed to me temp wasn't a factor, I switched to DOT 4 anyway. After bleeding, I adjusted the pedal and it worked perfectly. But a week or two later the problem returned again. And randomly when I would first get into the car the pedal would be all the way to the floor. I would have to pump it to get just enough pressure to work my clutch. Not good. Not knowing what the problem was, I bled the line every weekend. Went to the dealership to see what they would say and got the same bad clutch/pressure plate BS answer everyone with this problem seems to get. translation: "We dont know, but we'll charge you two grand to guess" YA RIGHT I had an ACT w/ less than 30,000 on it at the time.

Long story short, two separate but simultaneous problems were causing all of my clutch woes. First there was a leak in my clutch line. I suspect that it was very tiny at first, allowing air to seep into the line but not big enough to cause a noticeable leak. However after continual clutch bleeding and usage, it grew until I began to notice some fluid around the heat shield wrapping (or whatever it is) surrounding the line underneath the car. Eventually it affected the fluid level in the reservoir requiring me to refill every week or so. After replacing the line however, my pedal was still soft at the top, requiring me to pull it up with my foot after every shift. Then I noticed the second, less-obvious problem. The lock nut behind the adjustment rod had wiggled loose, causing the little rod to turn freely and drop my pedal (just like the clutch pedal adjustment mod ppl do to make the engagement point lower). So I adjusted it again by turning the rod the opposite direction and my pedal returned sharply to the top every time. A week later the pedal started getting soft again, so I went to adjust it and found the nut had wiggled loose again. A little blue loctite and my clutch pedal worries are gone for good!

Hope this helps someone. With both problems going on at the same time it really confused me..

Last edited by athens_murder'd; 07-09-2012 at 08:41 PM.
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post #2 of 23 Old 07-09-2012, 08:17 PM
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Good.info...hopefully this will help someone else with that problem in the future.

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post #3 of 23 Old 07-09-2012, 09:15 PM
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That's a great solution. Maybe it will help someone else.

'06 Autumn Copper FX35, '11 Alpine White Sentra & 2016 Red Hot Camaro 2SS
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post #4 of 23 Old 07-09-2012, 09:18 PM
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Please post pics of the location if you can.
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post #5 of 23 Old 07-10-2012, 12:33 AM
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Excellent troubleshooting and a good way to introduce yourself !!
Welcome to the world of bi polar automania (quirky cars)

'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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post #6 of 23 Old 07-12-2012, 09:02 PM
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Do you have a pic of this nut by any chance?

A lot of people seem to be replacing the master and slave cylinders to fix this.
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post #7 of 23 Old 07-13-2012, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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no camera right now srry long story

get down in front of your seat and look up and behind your clutch pedal. See the two-pronged bracket with a pin through it that connects your clutch pedal to the pushrod of your master cylinder? Just behind that bracket along the pushrod is where you will find the locknut. Then directly behind it (progressing toward the firewall) is the adjustment rod (it surrounds the pushrod as well and has vertical serrations)
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post #8 of 23 Old 07-13-2012, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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ya quite a few have had master cylinder failures
seems ppl are experiencing many issues that affect clutch pedal travel

Which is why I posted my personal solution
Why swap a master cylinder if a loose locknut is the culprit

Im sure a stealership would love to charge you master cylinder money
maybe that why so many ppl think that was their problem..
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post #9 of 23 Old 07-13-2012, 02:40 AM
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Good info.

For those who have this issue purely from the heat, a common quick fix is to "clean" the clutch fluid. Apparently dirty fluid doesn't withstand heat well and can act similar to air in the line.

1. Pump the clutch 15-20 times (car off). This circulates the system a bit.
2. Suck the clutch fluid out of the reservoir with pump or turkey baster
3. Refill with fresh fluid
4. Repeat steps 1-3 another 2-3 times. You'll notice that the fluid will get dirty again when you do step 1 again.

This has worked for me, as I only ever had the clutch issue when it's nearing 100 degrees outside and I've been driving for a while, allowing for heat to build up.

05 TB Sedan 6MT - Z tube, JWT pop-charger, Hotchkis sways, Tokico D-specs, Z & G coupe springs (f/r), Borla true dual cat-back
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post #10 of 23 Old 12-05-2012, 10:52 AM
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I replaced my master and slave cylinders, replaced the fluid, and took the pedal assembly completely apart and put white lithium grease liberally on every moving part.

The pedal stuck a couple times during the first test drive but has not since, a couple months. Still the pedal has a lot of play before engaging and makes noise when I shift fast (springs?). I think the pedal assembly is simply a crappy design. I plan to install an upgraded pedal assembly in the summer from:

*RJM Performance.com - Home
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post #11 of 23 Old 05-23-2013, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by athens_murder'd View Post
After replacing the line however, my pedal was still soft at the top, requiring me to pull it up with my foot after every shift. Then I noticed the second, less-obvious problem. The lock nut behind the adjustment rod had wiggled loose, causing the little rod to turn freely and drop my pedal (just like the clutch pedal adjustment mod ppl do to make the engagement point lower). So I adjusted it again by turning the rod the opposite direction and my pedal returned sharply to the top every time. A week later the pedal started getting soft again, so I went to adjust it and found the nut had wiggled loose again. A little blue loctite and my clutch pedal worries are gone for good!

Hope this helps someone. With both problems going on at the same time it really confused me..
Not sure if anyone is still tracking this thread but I am having the pedal return issue. I adjusted the engagement point and lock nut. Lock-tite applied and it doesn't wiggle free now!!!

So any ideas?

- Pedal drop issue started about a month ago

- upgraded to ZSP Wilwood and felt awesome for about two or so days.

- Fluid has been flushed thoroughly since and the level doesn't change over a week of normal use.

- Pedal engagement feels good and shifts are smooth but clutch pedal does not return on its own. (gotta use my foot :/ )

- RJM Rev.3 Pedal is in the mail with replacement slave cylinder (Problem solved???)


06mt Base Coupe KH3, TSW Rockingham, SPC, ZSP Wilwood, MT Redline 85, ATE Super Blue, Royal Purple
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File Type: jpg ZSPWilwood.JPG (18.7 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg LockNut.JPG (37.1 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0368[1].jpg (98.1 KB, 55 views)
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post #12 of 23 Old 05-24-2013, 12:14 AM
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Cool Color. I have BlueSlate. You have any pics that really show it off?

RJM fixed my issue. G37S Coupe. When was Rev.3 Released?
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post #13 of 23 Old 05-24-2013, 01:55 AM
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I have no ideas but you are not losing fluid,, ie leaks ? Good luck and keep us up to date on the project /progress.

Good job posting the photos,,, Thanks.

'04 G35 6MT, DG Coupe, Prem/Nav, purchased 06/2011 @97k mi / 119,650 as of 07.06.16
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post #14 of 23 Old 05-24-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satan View Post
Cool Color. I have BlueSlate. You have any pics that really show it off?

RJM fixed my issue. G37S Coupe. When was Rev.3 Released?
May 17th 2013- Rev 3 Pre-Orders
A Limited Number of Pre-Order Rev 3 Full Pedal Assmeblies for 350Z & G35 are
available now for purchase. All Pre-Order customers orders will be completed and
shipping out within 2-3 weeks prior to regular stock becoming available. If you
want to be amoung the first to receive the new Rev3 Pedal Units please don't
wait as the Pre-Order spaces will fill up quickly.


As soon as i caught wind of this looking into the issue with (Sticky Pedal) i nabbed a pre-order. Ryan messaged me personally and said he would update me with a tracking number in a few days. Lazer cutter is working O.T. apparently!

So yeah, will update with install pics and reviews asap!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rev3.JPG (21.7 KB, 39 views)

Last edited by murderface; 05-24-2013 at 10:37 AM.
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post #15 of 23 Old 05-27-2013, 03:27 AM
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RJM clutch bracket worked great for mine, no more sticky pedal returns.

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2005 Infiniti G35 Sedan (6mt)
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