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Old 05-20-2008, 10:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default water-methanol injection

ok motorheads, i am doing an n/a build on my 06 6mt. goal is to hit the 300whp mark. what do you think about a water-methanol injection system with mrev2, 1/2" spacer, headers, hfc's, cat back exhaust and tune?
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm not really sure that a water/methanol injection system is needed for the NA mods. I would think it's a better application for a SC/T/TT engine.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I will probably end up doing an FI build in a couple years but for now I want to get over the 300whp mark using an N/A setup. from the research I have done so far the water-meth injection system should give me about 30-50hp for 400 bucks from snow performance. they make a kit specifically for n/a engines. Just wondering if this will get me to my goal with the other mods listed previously.
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Old 05-21-2008, 02:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I highly doubt you will reach 260whp with your setup. You will need an engine management system at least.

Look at a lot of posts here. It's the best source of info on getting more power from the VQ engines. NA Builds - MY350Z.COM Forums
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Old 05-21-2008, 02:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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save the water/methanol injection system for when you go FI. otherwise, focus on spending some money and focus on your engine. also consider replacing your clutch, suspension and more importantly - reducing the weight of your car!
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Lets assume the car weighs 3500 lbs and you want 300 hp, that's 11.67 lbs/hp
If you reduce the weight to 3250 lbs and hit 280 hp with the basic mods, that's 11.61 lbs/hp, slightly better.
I'm sure that there are plenty of small things that could be removed/changed to make up some of that 250 lbs. Spare and jack is a good start. I think Optima claims their batteries are lighter than stock. Make sure the exhaust you are getting is lighter than stock.
This car could definitely stand to go on a little diet.
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Old 05-21-2008, 12:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^^^It takes a lot to strip weight from a car........at least a road going car. If it's track only, then you can strip seats, and insulation, etc.
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Old 05-21-2008, 12:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^^^^That's not unsprung weight either. If you can reduce the weight of your wheel/tire package that will have a greater affect on your car versus stripping weight from the body.
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have read many threads where people are talking about "bang for the Buck". In all my research, where else can you get 30-50hp for $400. There is not another bolt on mod that gives you that much, whether you are FI or not. The purpose of my build is to waste nothing. As I progress towards FI (SC) all of my mods previous to that will compliment and support the FI upgrade at the end. I was just wondering if anyone had installed the water-meth kit on an N/A car, and what their results were.
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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^^^I thought best bang for buck mod that really gets you a lot of instant HP was Nitrous.

Hey, whatever tickles your pickle.
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Old 05-21-2008, 02:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I was just making an example of the benefit of weight savings.
If he only hits 290 instead of 300 a weight loss of about 100 lbs will pretty much make up the difference. If you start pulling under hood liner and various covers under the hood and just about everything in the trunk out it will have no effect on civility or driveability and you have a good start on that diet.

I heard some stat somewhere for every pound saved on wheels/tires is equal to 3-4 lbs (ish) actual car weight. Similar stat for the flywheel, but not as drastic.
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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As far as nitrous goes here is some food for thought. Yes, you can get 100hp for about $500 but, it will coat you $40 to fill your bottle where as it will only cost you $30 for 4 gallons of water-meth mix which also gives you 5 refills. So, for nitrous you are spending $200 for 5 refills compared to $30 on water-meth mix. Additionally, nitrous makes your engine run hotter where as water-meth makes it run cooler. Nitrous is also more dangerous and harder on your engine than water-meth. So, nitrous looks better up front but when you do your research water-meth is the better buy, safer, and better for your engine.
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So, nitrous looks better up front but when you do your research water-meth is the better buy, safer, and better for your engine.
So why doesn't it get used more often??
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I really doubt you will get an instant 50 whp with meth. Even the guy with the vortech sc on my350z only got a 21 whp increase under boost.

Boosting increases the intake charge temp a lot, whereas NA doesn't. So boosted cars benefit more from the cooler intake charge.

I am anxious to hear your results, though.

Meth is also very corrosive and it isn't readily available everywhere.
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So why doesn't it get used more often??
Water-meth was originally designed for tractor pulls and forced induction desiel engines but the N/A kits IMO will start to become more popular now that they are out.
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