Just got done dynojet
Dynojet tech said the g35 a/f should be around 12.5
3000 rpm at 13.9, 4rpm at 14.1-5.5 drops to 13.2 to red line same with 4pulls
said runing lean and could see whp gains if corrected.
with 5% load MWHP=286 MT= 267
with no load MWHP=252 MT=233
Which ems is best for remapping that is (not for forced induction) or both SC N future
__________________
Z-tube, pop charger, MREV2 plenum, M 5/16 spacer, TDE Skunk2, nrg front strut, COBBaccessPORT :]
Just got done dynojet
Dynojet tech said the g35 a/f should be around 12.5
3000 rpm at 13.9, 4rpm at 14.1-5.5 drops to 13.2 to red line same with 4pulls
said runing lean and could see whp gains if corrected.
with 5% load MWHP=286 MT= 267
with no load MWHP=252 MT=233
Which ems is best for remapping that is (not for forced induction) or both SC N future
im assuming the numbers you gave are at WOT?
My question is, was he using wideband o2 or is he just going based on an estimate?
i personally think that 12.5 a/f is just a tad too rich. I would aim at 13 or as close as you can get without going under as you can.........
with the mods you have, your basically adding just a little bit more air to your motor, and if you havent done anything to adjust for fuel, you may be running leaner than stock......but from what i understand is that your ecu should auto-correct itself to adjust for any small changes that the mods you have installed have created.
Did you reset your ecu after installing the mods?
Alot of things can effect your a/f ratios.....altitude, temp, etc..........but you would have to be at extremes for both altitude and temperature to take any effect that your ecu wouldnt correct for, so i dont think thats the cause.
But mainly be sure to ask how he came to the conclusion of your ratios......cause if it wasnt measured by a wideband, then they arent accurate.
Thanks g35show for the info:]
12.5 is what he put on the graph but the tech said 13s would be best.
I disconected the negative of batt. and depressed the breaks. (resset corr.)
And yes it was measured by wideband.
Do u know the differenc in using load or not?
2 runs no load 2 with 5% load
__________________
Z-tube, pop charger, MREV2 plenum, M 5/16 spacer, TDE Skunk2, nrg front strut, COBBaccessPORT :]
Just got done dynojet
Dynojet tech said the g35 a/f should be around 12.5
3000 rpm at 13.9, 4rpm at 14.1-5.5 drops to 13.2 to red line same with 4pulls
said runing lean and could see whp gains if corrected.
with 5% load MWHP=286 MT= 267
with no load MWHP=252 MT=233
Which ems is best for remapping that is (not for forced induction) or both SC N future
Yes 4th gear WOT:]
__________________
Z-tube, pop charger, MREV2 plenum, M 5/16 spacer, TDE Skunk2, nrg front strut, COBBaccessPORT :]
It's a good thing that you are not FI'd yet. 13.2 afr at redline = BOOM!!
My afr at redline is about 11.5 but I am Vortech supercharged. If you go with a charger, you definitely want to address that. Most people go with the UTEC (ems) because anyone with a laptop can basically tune it. It's a good ems. I'm running the HKS FCon iS. It can only be tuned by an authorized HKS tuner (GT Motorsports tuned my car) which is why more people don't run this ems. But it offers much more resolution than the UTEC for more precise tuning. Also the UTEC has issues with hot starts, the HKS ems doesn't. That's not really that big of a deal though. So I would say go with the UTEC or if you have access to an HKS authorized dealer, go with the HKS FCon iS. If you are going with a built engine and bigtime power, the HKS FCon VPro is the ticket. The new Haltech ems is supposed to be pretty good also.
Thanks g35show for the info:]
12.5 is what he put on the graph but the tech said 13s would be best.
I disconected the negative of batt. and depressed the breaks. (resset corr.)
And yes it was measured by wideband.
Do u know the differenc in using load or not?
2 runs no load 2 with 5% load
load is comparitive to driving on the street. Wind, friction, etc........are all factored into this. So when you set the load on the dyno, you are pretty much simulating street driving.
no load is free spinning. It is the exact opposite as what i said above.
As to the effect of the 5% load and how much your afr's will be effected, i dont know.
I can tell you that if you plan on any sort of FI in the future like you are saying, you better be very sure of your tuner. You will always need to use premium gasoline (which im sure you already do).
I would tune for the lowest that you could possibly get to be on the safe side (if you have both 91 and 93 in your area, tune on 91 in case you NEED gas and have to go somewhere that doesnt have 93). Dont go under 91 though.
When you have your car tuned, i would most definately do all of the part throttle/idle tuning FIRST. Part throttle is very important and saves money when it comes to putting your car on the dyno cause usually if you get part throttle tuned in, everything else will be "close" or "closer", thus making less dyno time.
Use the dyno only for WOT pulls, and for "fine tuning" and if you are running FI with any significant amount of boost, make sure you have it tuned on a load dyno, not a free spinning. This is mainly because of the ignition timing......if ignition is tuned with no load, then you drive on the street, the numbers WILL change. Ignition is just as important as afr's............usually you will want to pull more and more timing per lbs of boost........this will decrease the chance of detonation, which is a must.
Tuning your car is by far the MOST IMPORTANT part of any FI setup. Do it correctly or dont do it is pretty much what it boils down to. Keep the afr's in the mid to high 11's to be "safe" in case you do for some reason get bad gas at the pump. And make sure you have the proper ignition timing dialed in.......thats pretty much the basics.
but as for your afrs your making on the NA setup, i wouldnt worry.......
It's really not but you wanna make sure that you are not leaning out too much either. What are your afr's like GZ??
I can't really tell you. I have APS stock 91 octane map minus their plenum. Basically it means I have 1 more octane point to play with and less air entering my engine than the parameters APS used for their tune.
__________________
Now I'm just laid bad - G35Princess
R.I.P. MBC
Yup I have the gauge. I tell you first time you see the gauge and you're coasting it can be a heart attack special (for the non gauged..........you do not burn fuel after the engine is warmed up, the car is in gear, and the car is coasting.........AFR's go to atmospheric O2 percentage).
__________________
Now I'm just laid bad - G35Princess
R.I.P. MBC
LOL! Yeah, that's exactly what happened to me. The first time that happened to me, I was like . Then I basically figured out what was going on but it was a tense few moments before I figured it out.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Air/Fuel mixture
