TT isn't recommended for the 5AT because the 5AT can't handle the power without a lot more money spent in upgrades. That's why the 6MT is recommended. No mods needed for the 6MT unless you want a stronger cluch, which isn't necessarily required.
I know this from experience with two friends. One has a 550 whp Greddy TT with a rebult 5AT ($$$$) with special clutch discs, valve body, and a tranny cooler. The tranny still overheats and malfunctions.
The other friend has a mile 360 whp Vortec and a 5AT with a valve body and cooler. He still has issues.
Just be forewarned. Some people have better luck with their particular 5AT though. It depends on how much power you want. Of course, more than about 425 or so to the rear wheels should have a built motor too.
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Sean Florida G Club '03.5 Caribbean Blue 5at Sedan w/ a few mods, '04 Laser Red 6mt Vortech Coupe w/ lots o' mods
I've seen people on driver with around 350 rwhp on their 5at that said it was working decently. Most of them either had a ST or a SC tho I believe. Some people didn't even get the valve body upgrade and were ok. I think it has a degree of luck to it.
I've seen people on driver with around 350 rwhp on their 5at that said it was working decently. Most of them either had a ST or a SC tho I believe. Some people didn't even get the valve body upgrade and were ok. I think it has a degree of luck to it.
Could also be how hard and how frequently they're getting into it too.
there are a couple of greddy twin turbo z running around town thats auto no mods just bolted on and he is smoking people. How long it will hold up not sure.
there are a couple of greddy twin turbo z running around town thats auto no mods just bolted on and he is smoking people. How long it will hold up not sure.
The boost must not be turned up too much. TT can kill am unbuilt VQ motor if not tuned properly.
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Sean Florida G Club '03.5 Caribbean Blue 5at Sedan w/ a few mods, '04 Laser Red 6mt Vortech Coupe w/ lots o' mods
TT isn't recommended for the 5AT because the 5AT can't handle the power without a lot more money spent in upgrades. That's why the 6MT is recommended. No mods needed for the 6MT unless you want a stronger cluch, which isn't necessarily required.
I know this from experience with two friends. One has a 550 whp Greddy TT with a rebult 5AT ($$$$) with special clutch discs, valve body, and a tranny cooler. The tranny still overheats and malfunctions.
The other friend has a mile 360 whp Vortec and a 5AT with a valve body and cooler. He still has issues.
Just be forewarned. Some people have better luck with their particular 5AT though. It depends on how much power you want. Of course, more than about 425 or so to the rear wheels should have a built motor too.
It really isnt the amount of rwhp that you push thru the at as the amount of rwt.If you keep the rwt down to about 380rwt with a v/b and trans cooler you should be fine..........but make sure who ever installs the kit heat wraps the trans lines.
It is the torque that will kill the auto trans........not the rwhp.You must at least get a v/b and a trans cooler.
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Greddy twins and a whole lot more.
i want to easily break 4.8< and under on 0-60.
and break 13< quarter.
i want to be able to beat any guy on the road at a stoplight (excluding rich older guys with vettes and what not though it would be ncie to beat some of these cars).
and i wanna pull up to the line at the 1/4 with everyone thinking "heres another ricer" .....then when i take off change there thoughts.
With you based on running 1/4 strips, I'd opt for the SC. It's a little easier to install and tune than your average turbo. Yup turbo or TT is going to be more fuel efficient than a SC setup.
Generally speaking you won't be experiencing a lot more lag with a single T than a twin if you properly size the turbos.
However keep this in mind. If you want to build a 1/4 machine you really should be upgrading your powertrain and more than likely build the bottom end too.
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Now I'm just laid bad - G35Princess
R.I.P. MBC
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