best way to get hp gains cheap - 6MT.net Infiniti G35/G37/GTR Forums
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post 1 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 10:50 AM
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Default best way to get hp gains cheap

Looking to get some good horsepower gains without spending a ton of money. Im looking into different mods like intake, chip, pulleys etc. Would like to know the best way to go
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post 2 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 01:14 PM
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The G's engine is pretty highly tuned. It's expensive to get much more hp out of it without going forced induction.

'06 Autumn Copper FX35 & '11 Alpine White Sentra
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post 3 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 01:41 PM
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what the guy above me said .... forced induction is the way for the bucks..... but for bolt-ons, plenum/spacer is the way to go =)
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post 4 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 01:42 PM
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check motordyne spacer or crwfordz plenum
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post 5 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 01:48 PM
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turbonator/tornado will do the trick.
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post 6 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 01:56 PM
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^lmfao!!!!!!!!!!!

06 MT|Z-TUBE & JWT POP CHARGER| |MD 5/16 SPACER|APEXI N1 EXHAUST|
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post 7 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 02:36 PM
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The cheapest mod is to replace the intake tube with one from a Nisson 350Z. You will see it listed as a Z-tube. The Infiniti intake tube is baffled and is the HP difference (8HP) between the 350Z and the G coupe. You can get the tube from Stillen for about $50.

CAI is a waste of money for the car, the airbox is well ahead of the engine, and only a few feet off the ground anyway. . There are no effective chip mods (with NA) that do anything other than adjust the top speed - again, a waste of money.

The stock plenum (the big piece feeding the intake manafolds), has a steep rake leading to the front two cylinders. This chokes the front two cylinders at high RPM - its done to clear the hood, but its probably a design flaw. By raising the front of the plenum you can get about another 16 HP. Motordyne, Gibson, and a few others make fixes - they all seem to be within about 10% of each other in performance (since they all address the same problem). Motordyne may be the least expensive and easiest to install (and claims the best performance) - their smallest spacer leaves the engine looking completely stock.

So you can get a good pop in HP for about $500.

The exhaust side is a little more expensive to work, you can add headers, high flow cats, and tuned exhaust. The intake stuff is pretty easy to do yourself, you probably need a shop to help with the other side.

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post 8 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy View Post
The cheapest mod is to replace the intake tube with one from a Nisson 350Z. You will see it listed as a Z-tube. The Infiniti intake tube is baffled and is the HP difference (8HP) between the 350Z and the G coupe. You can get the tube from Stillen for about $50.
you're suggesting that we gain 8hp from a z-tube? LMFAO.

yes, the g-tube is a sound baffler. replacing it with a z-tube is only going to help with increased air induction noise from under the hood.

our cars have that sound baffler because they are "luxury" sports cars. if the difference in power between the g and z is in fact a result of the sound baffler, then i highly doubt nissan would have sacraficed that 8hp to baffle sounds from under the hood. besides, the z-tube alone doesn't make it that much louder to begin with.
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post 9 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 04:12 PM
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all great suggestions in gaining a bit of HP here and there.....also look into a nitrous oxide systems.......you can get a descent set-up for the G at around $500 or so......test pipes , but their not street legal

'04 Silver | 5AT | Stillen Exhaust | Crawford Cats | AA Plenum Spacer | Injen CAI | UR SS Pulley Kit | Eibach Springs.
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post 10 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 04:25 PM
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saw this at ultimateresourceguides.com.........seems like it fit your needs....



free mods G35, free mods Infiniti G35 Coupe Sedan

GAIN 5 HORSEPOWER THIS WEEKEND
For Almost No Money Spent

by Nathan Morris

If you're looking for free & cheap ways to increase the horsepower output of your engine - I've got just the thing for you.

I want to share with you 6 cheap or in some cases, even free ways that you can gain horsepower.

I hope that you will enjoy these 6 awesome modifications for your car, and without further delay - let's get started!

Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs

The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno proven time and time again.


As illustrated above, in order to perform this mod, mark the side on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight (that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug, faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!

Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines

Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better overall mixture.

In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.

Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor

In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your factory service manual to find its location.

At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.

In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra horsepower.

In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.

Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil

In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils through my engines and have found that for the most part - all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact, I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.

Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic. Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a far better lubricant and protector of your engine.

Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant

If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is always going to produce more horsepower.

Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However, NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter should only be used for track purposes.

Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

This one I saved for last, and for good reason. This is perhaps one of the best modifications that you can do for basically nothing. As you'll see in the dyno below, which is of my Integra LS motor in a 92 Civic hatchback, before and after: I got back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in the quarter mile in my particular vehicle - needless to say I'm very pleased with this modification.





Above you see a diagram of how coolant normally flows through a throttle body (illustration is from an Accord). All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces of coolant hose.

If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve), and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed. This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty hard to explain in a "universal" manor.

'04 Silver | 5AT | Stillen Exhaust | Crawford Cats | AA Plenum Spacer | Injen CAI | UR SS Pulley Kit | Eibach Springs.
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post 11 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ahero4eternity View Post
you're suggesting that we gain 8hp from a z-tube? LMFAO.
Nissan Sport Mag did back to back dyno testing showing a gain - what testing have you done showing there isn't one?

Randy
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post 12 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by teddy View Post
Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

This one I saved for last, and for good reason. This is perhaps one of the best modifications that you can do for basically nothing. As you'll see in the dyno below, which is of my Integra LS motor in a 92 Civic hatchback, before and after: I got back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in the quarter mile in my particular vehicle - needless to say I'm very pleased with this modification.





Above you see a diagram of how coolant normally flows through a throttle body (illustration is from an Accord). All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces of coolant hose.
This is an advantage of the Motordyne Isothermal kit that comes wit the coolant cutoff valve.

Those are all good suggestions you found.

'06 Autumn Copper FX35 & '11 Alpine White Sentra
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post 13 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ahero4eternity View Post
the z-tube alone doesn't make it that much louder to begin with.
It does in my opinion. I didn't expect my car to sound louder or different when I put the Z-tube in, but it definitely did. My friends father has the exact same car as me, only with no Z-tube or motoryne spacer, and his car is noticeably quieter than mine.

It's very noticeable.... but not soo noticeable that it's annoying. I have had a few people at my job though ask me what I did to my exhaust... because they said it sounds loud.

-2004.5 6MT G35 Coupe, Diamond Graphite/Graphite, Aero, Premium, Nav, Splash Guards, Aluminum Pedals, Z-Tube and K&N Air Filter, 3/8\" Motordyne Plenum Spacer
-2001 Toyota Tacoma SR5 Stepside 5-Speed 4X4 with siderails, Tonneau Cover, Bed Liner, and Rain Guards
-1990 Nissan 240SX SE 5-speed with some minor mods
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post 14 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 10:00 PM
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sorry, but i don't trust dynos from magazines.

the z-tube is a great mod - don't get me wrong. but don't get your hopes up by believing it's going to yield 8whp.
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post 15 of 50 Old 08-12-2007, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by partyman66 View Post
It does in my opinion. I didn't expect my car to sound louder or different when I put the Z-tube in, but it definitely did. My friends father has the exact same car as me, only with no Z-tube or motoryne spacer, and his car is noticeably quieter than mine.

It's very noticeable.... but not soo noticeable that it's annoying. I have had a few people at my job though ask me what I did to my exhaust... because they said it sounds loud.
well, sorry to tell you but the spacer makes a bigger impact on noise than your z-tube alone.

a spacer/z-tube isn't going to make your exhaust louder, either.
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