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Old 07-14-2005, 01:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 6 things you can do to gain hp!

hey guys,

i found this for the 350z. i don't know much about mods or engines, but i'm sure a couple of these will help, especially the spark plug one. hope i've contributed to this site =)
***note: i don't think the pics will come out..so here's the link
http://www.ultimateresourceguides.co...-freemods.html
_________________________________

GAIN 5 HORSEPOWER THIS WEEKEND
For Almost No Money Spent

by Nathan Morris

If you're looking for free & cheap ways to increase the
horsepower output of your engine - I've got just the thing for
you.

I want to share with you 6 cheap or in some cases, even free
ways that you can gain horsepower.

I hope that you will enjoy these 6 awesome
modifications for your car, and without further delay - let's
get started!

Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs

The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to
take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs
in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno
proven time and time again.



As illustrated above, in order to perform this mod, mark the side
on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install
them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight
(that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use
your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug,
faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!

Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines

Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost
all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance
loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes
performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will
help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better
overall mixture.

In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your
local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and
air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel
lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.


Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor

In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that
measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your
factory service manual to find its location.

At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted
inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by
coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since
the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this
way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer
into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it
really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a
small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.

In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more
desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra
horsepower.

In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and
remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB
weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake
arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.

Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil

In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils
through my engines and have found that for the most part -
all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils
definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact,
I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev
range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.

Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic.
Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a
far better lubricant and protector of your engine.

Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant

If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers
would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools
better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is
always going to produce more horsepower.

Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However,
NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which
will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter
to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter
should only be used for track purposes.

Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

This one I saved for last, and for good reason. This is
perhaps one of the best modifications that you can do for
basically nothing. As you'll see in the dyno below, which
is of my Integra LS motor in a 92 Civic hatchback, before
and after: I got back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over
the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine
when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was
no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in
the quarter mile in my particular vehicle - needless to say
I'm very pleased with this modification.







Above you see a diagram of how coolant normally flows
through a throttle body (illustration is from an Accord).
All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two
coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and
connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose
section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples
connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces
of coolant hose.

If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will
need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve),
and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed.
This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty
hard to explain in a "universal" manor.
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Index your plugs - agree with Nathan.

Insulate fuel lines - in theory he's correct, but I don't know how much heat soak we're talking about. In other words the lines might not get hot enough or transfer heat quick enough to make this a true real world gain.

Tricking the ECU to advance timing - this can be a very bad thing to do, especially if you're FI.

Sythetic oils - maybe, maybe not.

Increase H20 ratio in coolant - 100% incorrect. By increasing the ratio of water to coolant you lower the boiling point of the mixture and increase the freezing point. He needs to do his homework on this one.

Throttle body coolant bypass - makes sense, but 10 ft*lbs taking off 0.2 seconds through the 1/4 mile, no way.


I agree that in theory most of what he's saying makes sense, but no one is good enough to measure the hp gains he's saying you're going to get. The results from a dyno just aren't that accurate or precise.
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Old 07-14-2005, 08:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GZire
Tricking the ECU to advance timing - this can be a very bad thing to do, especially if you're FI.
when i was in high school, i thought i was slick and did this to my Olds 442. yeah... it f'd everything up.
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Old 07-14-2005, 09:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I think what he is getting to with the whole H2O thing is that the specific heat of water is higher than antifreeze. Yes antifreeze has properties that are essential for long term operation. Boiling point can be modified by changing the pressure in the system.
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Old 07-14-2005, 10:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That's true. Many racing teams run pure water. It's supposed to transfer heat better than coolant. But they have to flush the system daily.
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Old 07-14-2005, 10:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Question about the plugs. When they say facing the intake side I assume they mean towards the plenum so basically you want the open end of the plug facing up?
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Old 07-14-2005, 10:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roneski
Question about the plugs. When they say facing the intake side I assume they mean towards the plenum so basically you want the open end of the plug facing up?

+1 to what GZ said, he is dead on.

Roneski, they need to face whichever direction the intake runners do, in our case towards the center of the engine block. The theory to this, is that you have the open face of the plug, where the spark happens, exposed to the side of the cylinder where the intake valves are letting the fule/air mix into the cylinders. This presents the ingnitor (the spark) to the mixture immediately, not having to swirl into the cylinder.

However...this really means jack shit, because the mixture is not immediately ignited anyway. The piston has to return topside and compress the mixture, THEN the ignition happens. At that point there is fuel every fricking where inside the now small chamber, and getting anything to ignite won't matter a whit on where the plug faces. Sure you can do this, but in reality it's not going to help.
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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dayam.. u guys are great! i should of posted asking your opinions first before assuming i'd be of any help. thanks for the tech knowledge. =)
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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These tips seem kind of ehh... to me a lot of the gains can be subjected to temperature, sea level, humdity, and etc. But nevertheless, great job searching them out. I concur with the maybe's and some I'm just skeptical about.
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Old 07-14-2005, 11:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I will keep this in mind next time I am doing under hood maintenance. I especially liked the idea about the fuel lines.
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Old 07-15-2005, 04:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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doesn't seem worth it to me. a lot of extra work and some questionable procedures to gain 5hp which you wouldn't even notice.
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DG G35
I will keep this in mind next time I am doing under hood maintenance. I especially liked the idea about the fuel lines.
This really won't help you all that much unfortunately. Due to heat soak, and most everything under our hoods being aluminum, which REALLY soaks heat in fast (and thankfully releases it fast as well), a 20 second pause at a stoplight means that the heat will make it through that insulation then the insulation will TRAP it there longer once you are moving and getting air through the engine compartment, than if you just left it well enough alone.
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Old 07-15-2005, 12:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm planning on running my air conditioning hoses along the fuel lines so the fuel is nice and cold. I should get an extra 10 ponies out of that!
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gfunk
I'm planning on running my air conditioning hoses along the fuel lines so the fuel is nice and cold. I should get an extra 10 ponies out of that!
LOL just be sure to route them next to the pressurized lines, and not the returns Those return lines can cause a nasty burn, as they are what pulls the heat out of the car to release into the air outside. That would superheat your fuel
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