Proper way to add a Subwoofer to the stock radio? - 6MT.net Infiniti G35/G37/GTR Forums
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post #1 of 68 Old 03-14-2012, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Default Proper way to add a Subwoofer to the stock radio?

I just want to double check this.

So when I add an amp to the stock radio, all I have to do is run the cabling for power and just tap into the L/R fader wire in the rear deck and I'm basically done?
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post #2 of 68 Old 03-14-2012, 09:08 PM
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What are you trying to do? Replace the amp and speakers or what?

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post #3 of 68 Old 03-14-2012, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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adding 1 sub, and using the L/R fader on the stock radio as the bass volume.
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post #4 of 68 Old 03-14-2012, 09:49 PM
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Fader is front/rear. Balance is left/right.

To add a sub you can tap into the rear left and right signal wires before they go into the Bose amp and run them into the aftermarket amp using RCA plugs. It works well to sacrifice one or two RCA cables and either cut one in half or cut the ends off two.

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post #5 of 68 Old 03-26-2012, 09:00 AM
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If you want to do a good job of adding an amp to your stock system, buy something called a PAC LC-2. The PAC LC-2 converts the high level audio signal (used by Bose amp) to a low level audio signal. You can use high level audio signals on some aftermarket amps, however the quality is never as good. The other advantage to the LC-2 is that there is a variable gain control on it so you can actually control the gain to the amp. The LC-2 is also quite simple to install.

The option that would give the highest quality while using the stock head unit would be to use either the MTX Re-Q bass converter or the JL bass converter. However, the Re-Q is about $150, and the JL is around $225...that being said, I would still go with the LC-2.

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post #6 of 68 Old 03-26-2012, 09:24 PM
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^^ that isn't necessary if the line level signals are used before they go into the Bose amp.

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post #7 of 68 Old 03-26-2012, 10:31 PM
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^^ that isn't necessary if the line level signals are used before they go into the Bose amp.
I know it is not necessary (if the amp has a high level input), but honestly the PAC LC-2 is about $50 (including s&h) off eBay. I would rather pay the extra little bit so that I can have a good quality low level audio signal with a variable gain control.

I have worked in the car audio business for a while and that LC-2 is such a slick way to do a factory integration. Maybe I should post a DIY to show people how to take the LC-2 apart so they can mount the gain control where they want in their car. I usually put it in the extra button plug located by the trunk switch and VDC button.

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post #8 of 68 Old 03-27-2012, 06:51 AM
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The Bose amp is the evil part of the system because it adds the awful equalization so tapping into the post Bose amp signal and dropping it to line level with any device defeats one of the reasons to bypass the Bose amp. Another reason being the low power.

The signal going into the Bose amp is low level and is suitable to connect RCA plugs onto the wires before they get into the Bose amp and feed the signal directly into the line level RCA jacks on any amp.

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post #9 of 68 Old 03-27-2012, 10:23 AM
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The signal going to the amp may be suitable, but it is not optimal. If I owned a g37 I would want the best components going into the install. When you use high quality components you will be able to hear the difference between using and not using a bass converter, such as the LC-2. In addition, if you use the fader to control the bass level you will mess up the tune of the stereo. I believe that an isolated gain control is far superior.

When you use a bass converter there is almost zero chance of the anything failing. The wires used in RCA cables are very thin. If you do not do a perfect job of stripping the insulation and soldering, the connection could eventually become stressed and break. I live in a climate with huge temperature swings (90*C swings between winter and summer). I have found that it is simply better to build a system to the highest quality to avoid problems.

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But how can the system be optimal and of the highest quality when the signal first goes through the Bose amp where the signal is altered and the bass level reduced as the volume increases?

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I can see how the LC2 can be used to add a sub to a stock system if someone intends to keep the Bose amp, but I wouldn't run the signal thru the Bose amp if I'm replacing it.

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post #12 of 68 Old 03-27-2012, 06:41 PM
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I am sorry. I should have explained how the LC-2 works. You tap into the left and right front speaker signal before any amplification occurs. The LC-2 then generates its own bass output signal. RCA cables are then ran from the LC-2 to the amp. I like the LC-2 because it is generating its own bass signal off the front speakers (which are the most dynamic).

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post #13 of 68 Old 03-27-2012, 06:55 PM
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Well with that explanation of not going thru the Bose amp first, I would agree with you. That would be a nice device to have.

What is your preferred method to tap into the front peaker signal, pre Bose amp?

I assume the signal then continues thru the Bose amp to the door speaker.

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post #14 of 68 Old 03-27-2012, 07:51 PM
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I am interested in knowing this as well since I am just spliced off the 6x9 right now and am looking for ways to make my sub sound better.

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post #15 of 68 Old 03-27-2012, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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gobluecar, is this what you're talking about?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...dio-_-82461045


I always had an epicenter in my past cars, but won't go there unless I go 2 10" +.

Amazon.com: Audio Control Epicenter Bass Maximizer: Car Electronics Amazon.com: Audio Control Epicenter Bass Maximizer: Car Electronics
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